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1989 Evinrude 110 wont run wide open

J

Jad88

New member
Hello folks, I am new here and judging by all the great posts i have read, i am hoping someone can tell help me with my issue,
I have an 89 eveinrude 110 hp that i have got running and idling well, but it will not open up on full throttle, just bogs. Now theres new coils last year, new plugs this year, It will run wide open in neutral but not under load. Theres always a few things to check, fuel is fine. I know it can be expensive by 1 step at a time, so im hoping some one can direct me an easier solution. Many thx to those who reply.
 
Winding it up in nuetral proves nothing as it will do that running on only 2 cylinders.------------So gather the facts on the motor.------Do a compression test first.----Then do a proper spark check.------Each lead should jump a gap of 7/16" or more.----Report the actual values you find on those 2 tests.
 
racerone said:
Winding it up in nuetral proves nothing as it will do that running on only 2 cylinders.------------So gather the facts on the motor.------Do a compression test first.----Then do a proper spark check.------Each lead should jump a gap of 7/16" or more.----Report the actual values you find on those 2 tests.
Click to expand...

Ok i have checked the gaps on the plugs there right on, compression check with all 4 plugs out and throttle wide open.
Left side (passenger) 124 and 124
Right side (drivers) 90 and 90
Now i also ran the test on right side with all 3 other plus in and the compression was 80 on each.

Thankyou for your time
Much appreciated
 
Those compression results indicate that you have piston / ring problems.---------Need to pull the head on the bad side for inspection.-------------The spark plug gap does not come into play on a proper spark check.----Does spark jump a gap of 7/16" on all for leads ??--- That is a true test of the ignition sytem !!!
 
Im not sure what you mean by spark jumps or how to test that.
Is it possible it could be a head gasket on the bad side ?
Thankyou
 
DO NOT EVER open the engine up to a high rpm (anything over 1800rpm) in neutral as you will be invitiing a runaway engine whereas it will deisel on and on upwards into ever increasing rpms until connecting rods start flying out the sides of the crankcase OR the engine runs out of fuel, whichever comes first. On a runaway engine, closing the throtttle or turning the key off does absolutely nothing... the engine continues to run on!

Very possible that you have a bad head gasket... you need to remove the cylinder head to inspect the pistons, sealing surfaces, etc anyway.

With the spark plugs removed, you need to hook up a spark tester whereas you can set a 7/16" gap for the spark to jump. The spark should jump that 7/16" gap easily with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP!

Note that it is a total waste of time to check the spark by using the spark plugs! No tester?... Build the following:

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.


Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:




..........X1..........X2


.................X..(grd)


..........X3..........X4

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
Ok thankyou very much, Ill have my son do this test, he is an electician and knows this stuff well, ill also remove the head tomorrow and inspect the walls etc, I am knowlegeable for that part. Just out of the blue, whats a rebuilt power head cost ?
 
joereeves said:
DO NOT EVER open the engine up to a high rpm (anything over 1800rpm) in neutral as you will be invitiing a runaway engine whereas it will deisel on and on upwards into ever increasing rpms until connecting rods start flying out the sides of the crankcase OR the engine runs out of fuel, whichever comes first. On a runaway engine, closing the throtttle or turning the key off does absolutely nothing... the engine continues to run on!

Very possible that you have a bad head gasket... you need to remove the cylinder head to inspect the pistons, sealing surfaces, etc anyway.

With the spark plugs removed, you need to hook up a spark tester whereas you can set a 7/16" gap for the spark to jump. The spark should jump that 7/16" gap easily with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP!

Note that it is a total waste of time to check the spark by using the spark plugs! No tester?... Build the following:

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.


Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:




..........X1..........X2


.................X..(grd)


..........X3..........X4

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
Click to expand...

I have removed the head, the first thing i noticed was it took no effort at all to remove the bolts, I removed the head gasket gently, and found one rust spot near a bolt hole on both sides, Now i checked the cylinder walls and there are no scors or any metal filings even after wiping onto a cloth, the walls are shiny and smooth. The head of the piston has no pittings at all nothing to suggest theres a problem there, unless the rings are seized, do you suggest a new head gasket ? and see if this improves the compression on this side ?
Thankyou again.
 
The head gasket replacement is worth a shot in my opinion. You state "no effort to remove the bolts"... I take that as the bolts were loose and if so, that would surely result in a compression problem. Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean, not pitted or damages in any way.

Wondering why those bolts were loose... It would be a good idea to check the bolts on the opposite bank. Has the engine been overheated bad at any time? That would have loosened the bolts.

Torque the head bolts 18 to 20 foot pounds in the following sequence:

9....10
5.....6
1.....2
4.....3
8.....7
 
joereeves said:
The head gasket replacement is worth a shot in my opinion. You state "no effort to remove the bolts"... I take that as the bolts were loose and if so, that would surely result in a compression problem. Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean, not pitted or damages in any way.

Wondering why those bolts were loose... It would be a good idea to check the bolts on the opposite bank. Has the engine been overheated bad at any time? That would have loosened the bolts.

Torque the head bolts 18 to 20 foot pounds in the following sequence:

9....10
5.....6
1.....2
4.....3
8.....7
Click to expand...
The engine has never over heated, I am assuming that if these gaskets were replaced in the past year or 2 before i bought the boat, they were not properly torqued or retorqued after so many hours, i beleive i read thats standard procedure. I did check the good side, and they were not as bad as far as torgue goes. Thankyou for your information, helps me a great deal. Ill get a new gasket on as soon as i locate one and let you know how it goes,.
 
Well i got a new head gasket on and all torqued properly and the compression is still at 90. Rings ? They didnt seem to be seized and seen no damage on the cylinder walls or piston head. Any ideas ?
Thanks
 
Actually in reminding myself that you have a 1989 model.... that 90 psi reading is pretty much normal... the 124 psi on the port (left) bank is unusually high, making me wonder if someone has had the head or block milled.

If you have good spark on all cylinders, I'd suggest that you clean the carburetors thoroughly. THere are four high speed jets, two to a carb, located horizontially in the bottom center portion of the float chambers, way in back of the drain plug screws.... clean them carefully manually with a piece of single strand steel wire as solvent just doesn't do a proper job of it.
 
Thankyou, i myslef thought 90 was decent also, but wondered comparing it to the other side. I will now do as you suggest and get the carbs cleaned,
Again thankyou, ill let ya know soon.
 
Just to update you on whats going on here, had the carbs dones at the marina near here, whole kits included and they found so far that the oil pump was not working properly, so there going to remove the tank and close the line, add oil to the fuel and test it on the water tomorrow. They staye this causes compression problems also. Never heard of it but hoping this resplves the problem of it not wanting to run wide open.
 
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