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1988 mercury 60hp

J

Jingle

Member
I just bought this boat. The engine has no spark on any cylinder. I believe it to be the stator. So I removed the flywheel and found to yellow cut wires coming out of the stator cut. I would like to order new one but dont know were those wires would go. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Yellow wires are usually part of the battery charging system.----They would go to a rectifier / voltage regulator.
 
It has 4 in total 2 that are cut and to that go to what I'm guessing to be regulator. I have no spark at all so does that sound like a stator problem. It looks new besides the cut wires.
Thanks for help
 
My 78 has two yellow going to charging system and a red and a blue going to a switchbox. I had weak spark from the Killswitch wire being grounded out .pulled kill wire free and wrapped it up and got spark back. Have to choke the motor to kill it though. Your kill wire might be brown though. Mine was orange and I disconnected it from the switchbox.
 
Burris said:
My 78 has two yellow going to charging system and a red and a blue going to a switchbox. I had weak spark from the Killswitch wire being grounded out .pulled kill wire free and wrapped it up and got spark back. Have to choke the motor to kill it though. Your kill wire might be brown though. Mine was orange and I disconnected it from the switchbox.
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My 88 has 4 yellows one red and one blue coming off of the stator itself. Only 2 yellow hooked up other cut off. Not sure were the two cut off go and not on schematic
 
You can look it up on marine engine. Com and by serial number hp year ect. Then look to see if a new one matches and also the partnumber references to yours there are diagrams of parts and how they go
 
This is what I had to do on mine to find parts because the serial number didn't register I had to pick different countries of origin till I found one that matches mine carburetor stator switchbox flywheel everything
 
This season I had to replace the original stator on my '92 Merc 4cylinder 2stroke electric start; spark eventually deteriorated from little spark to no spark evidenced by hard starting, no idle, then, no start. Had the shop manual that showed 2 yellow, 1 Blue, 1 Red, 1 Blue/WHT, 1 Red/Wht. The 2 yellow connected to a voltage regulator; the others connected to the switch box. Bought a new one made by CDI; it had the same color wires; they have a good diagnostic and spec document at http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-con...de-Digital.pdf. You can see what I did at http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...68-Yet-Another-Merc-40-2-Stroke-With-No-Spark. CDI responds quickly to questions from their website.
 
I looked it up I have the 60 elpto. And I cant find any stator that has all those on there. That it has on it now. So I'm confused. Lol. Also anyone know how to add a picture on here maybe that would help
 
You can look up your part on marineengine.com or contact them via their website or go to the CDI website and look up your part or contact them via their website.
 
Thanks. Some just told me it sounds like they tried to put a 40 amp stator on here and just cut the extra yellow wires. Is that a possibility
 
Maybe look up your stators part number and see what it goes to(the stator with cut wires) someone might have put the wrong one on and tried to make it work
 
Yea I did the one that supposed to have on it only has 2 yellows this one has 4. I'm pretty sure someone just tried to make it work. And also is there a way to test the switch box. So I know that isn't the problem either. I should I just do the trigger switch box and stator all at once
 
You can ohms test the coils stator and trigger bit the switchbox is only by process of elimination. To better test the system after replacing the stator with a correct one, would be to do an ohm test on the coils and trigger and see if they are ok ohms wise, replace the appropriate stator, turn the ignition key to on several times and make sure there's no voltage to your kill wire. That's important because voltage on the kill wire can kill your switchbox immediately! If there is disconnect the kill wire(you would have to choke the engine off at this point) then try to start it and see if there's spark. If Sparks not there or weak you then need to dva test the peak voltages to and from the switch box to see which component is at fault.
 
Jingle said:
Thanks. Some just told me it sounds like they tried to put a 40 amp stator on here and just cut the extra yellow wires. Is that a possibility
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There were only 2 stators for my 40hp: a 9amp for the non-electric start and a 16amp for the electric start. On the 9amp, there were 2 yellow wires that went to a terminal block; on the 16amp, the 2 yellow wires went to the voltage regulator that controlled charging the battery.
 
Hi everyone from info above thanks. But I will repeat on my 1988 mercury 60 hp I noticed the fuel lever is set at the no spark mark. So I am assuming I will get no spark. Lol. The throttle cables are not hooked up. Should I do this before I try to start or should I just hold the throttle lever away from no spark position. This is just to test. This engine hasn't ran in years.
Thanks again.
 
On my '92 Merc 40hp 4cyl 2 stroke, I have disconnected the throttle cable from the throttle arm and have run the motor by moving the throttle arm manually; on mine the throttle arm activates the throttle shaft on the carbs and also the spark advance arm at the same time; you ought to: make sure your oil injection system is working, you have good non-ethanol gas; and you have spark at the spark plugs by making sure your lever is at a spark position; you can choke/prime the carbs; supply water to the water pump in the lower unit via a water barrel or adapter garden hose muffs. Having an ohm meter and a spark tester is a good idea even if you get a new stator. I have provided links above to help you; keep us up on your progress.
 
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I will keep everyone up to date on progress but I dont have injection system it's just mix the gas. And no prime bulb. Also I dont see any links. Thanks
 
No primer bulb? I looked up that engine a little bit on marineengine.com and saw that it has carbs. Usually, there is a primer bulb on the fuel line out of the gas tank going into the engine; the primer bulb is used to squeeze gas from the tank into the float bowls of the carbs; then the gas in the float bowls of the carbs supplies the carb/fuel process; after that, the fuel pump takes over drawing gas from the tank to the carb float bowls. I am no mechanic; maybe there are outboards that don't need a primer bulb.
 
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