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1988 20hp 2cyl Pull and Electric Start?

bigtime_mcalpine

Regular Contributor
Hi,
I upgraded my 20hp pull start to electric thinking I could get both electric and pull but it seems that the rubber bumpers for the pull mech interfere with the teeth on the electric flywheel. I've seen some videos online where the pull mech seems to have been replaced with one where the bumpers have been eliminated altogether - anyone know what part I should be looking for? My engine is an E20CRCCA. I got my hands on an 11 tooth starter as well as a 74 tooth electric/pull flywheel.
 
That should not interfere. The only difference between a recoil start and electric start is the hood. What yr motor did you get the electric start bracket off of?
 
I have an 1985 20 horse and it has the pull start with the longer legs to clear ring gear.I also added electric start to it.Some pull starts had the flywheel with no ring gear and thus a different recoil with shorter legs(I have one in parts box)where it mounts.Actually had a 1988 30hp that had this set up.Not at home now but look at mine when I get home.
 
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That should not interfere. The only difference between a recoil start and electric start is the hood. What yr motor did you get the electric start bracket off of?

Not sure but the electric start bracket works perfectly. My only issue is the three rubber supports that sit under the pull start assembly. They rub against the teeth from the flywheel. As per flyingscott's reply, my pull start has the stubby legs that sit on the bumpers. I guess I need to seek out a different pull start mech with the extended legs that eliminates the need for the bumpers. For reference, the bumpers are parts 110 and 111 in the diagram below.


https://www.marineengine.com/parts/...rer=Evinrude&section=Cylinder+&+Crankcase
 
I have an 1985 20 horse and it has the pull start with the longer legs to clear ring gear.I also added electric start to it.Some pull starts had the flywheel with no ring gear and thus a different recoil with shorter legs(I have one in parts box)where it mounts.Actually had a 1988 30hp that had this set up.Not at home now but look at mine when I get home.

Ahhhh, ok, that's what I was trying to figure out. I looked up parts for subsequent years to see if the starter was the same (it was) but I didnt look back to earlier years. I'l take a peek.
 
Ahhhh, ok, that's what I was trying to figure out. I looked up parts for subsequent years to see if the starter was the same (it was) but I didnt look back to earlier years. I'l take a peek.
I just happen to look at parts diagram for my and your motor.The drawings are definitely different as far as the leg length but they show the same part number.There is a another number for mine but was replaced by the current number.
 
Ahhhh, ok, that's what I was trying to figure out. I looked up parts for subsequent years to see if the starter was the same (it was) but I didnt look back to earlier years. I'l take a peek.
Part number on mine #391088. Cannot find that here on this site but saw one that was sold on an auction site.Should be able to source one used somewhere.
 
The rubber mounts.-------The purpose is to allow the recoil assembly to twist.-----The reason for that is to allow the 2 pawls in the recoil ( blue ) to load equally and reduce breakage.-----Do you need them if you just have the recoil as back up ?----That is a question I can not answer !!
 
No need to redesign the wheel here. Just put flats in the bushings to clear the ring gear. Use contact cement to keep them from turning and go boating. Or make the holes bigger and back them up.
 
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Put up a pic of your flywheels because there is no way your recoil should not work? And your ring gear should not be hitting anything. The non electric flywheel has a balancing ring on it that would be replaced by the ring gear. If you look at this flywheel you can clearly see the ring that would be different on an electric start flywheel. Those 2 rings are the same diameter. This is an 89 20 hp



20 hp flywheel.jpg
 
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Put up a pic of your flywheels because there is no way your recoil should not work? The non electric flywheel has a balancing ring on it that would be replaced by the ring gear.
I actually tried a rope start only recoil I have on my other 25hp electric start and when mounting it with the spacers they get hit by teeth on flywheel. Have seen where spacers were modified or made to accommodate the teeth on flywheel. Would personally rather have correct recoil on there just to be safe.
 
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