I thought for sure someone here would of been able to help....
Yeah, I did too. I held off as my memory isn't as sharp as it used to be and I loaded my 1987 book to a friend a long time ago... and that was the end of that! Anyhow.....................
Remove all spark plugs.
Compression test... what are the actual psi readings of the individual cylinders? Cylinders are numbered as follows, standing in back of the engine, facing the spark plugs.
2.....1
4.....3
Spark test... s/plugs still removed.
The spark should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it? NOTE that the 7/16" air gap is important.
Be precise in your answers... Generalities such as the compression is good, the spark is great, that sort of answer is useless.
No Tester?... see the following.
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(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)
You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark ... or build the following:
A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.
Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:
..........X1..........X2
.................X..(grd)
..........X3..........X4
This can obviously be modified to a 6 or 8 cylinder setup tester.
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(Link & Sync)
Assuming you have "all" of the jets back exactly where they belong, and tightened down.
Loosen the retaining screw of the throttle follower and back the roller away from the metal cam. Don't want it touching anything at the moment.
Adjust the throttle butterfly linkages between the carburetors so that the butterflies open and close at the same time. You do not want one ever so slightly open while the others are closed.
Now, adjust the throttle roller so that the butterflies just start to open when the scribe mark of the cam is dead center with the roller... not before or after.
NOTE that the roller should be approximately 3/8" in diameter... If it is instead about 1/8" in diameter, it is faulty (broken) and requires replacing immediately. This takes care of the Link & Sync.
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Hopefully you have not tinkered with the adjustment of the horizontal rod that is attached between the vertical throttle arm and the metal cam that slides against the throttle roller (Idle Timing). If you did, you will need to reset the idle timing with a timing light as per your service manual.
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Spark plugs should be Champion plugs, gaped at either .030 (long life)... or .040 (super strong spark), your choice.
Let us know what you find.
