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1986 Four Winns Horizon 190, Carb Linkage?

M

MrHProblems

Contributing Member
I recently acquired this 1986 Four Winns Horizon 190 with a Mercruiser 230 V8 in it.

The motor runs and sounds good at idle but it feels underpowered, only goes up to 3,000 rpms and 30mph at WOT under load.

I noticed the throttle plates/butterflies don't open at all when I move the throttle. I disconnected the throttle cable so I would have full range of throttle abilities and they don't open that way either. I can use my finger and easily move them fully vertical though.

Here is a pic from what I believe is the throttle shaft(circled) with nothing connected to it.

I cant find a diagram that makes any sense online for what I am missing here.
 

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sounds like you are running on the primaries only.

post a pic showing what you believe isnt opening properly...and we can go from there...
 
Photo from Google:

*Highlighted in green*

But the throttle plates/butterflies is what is not opening at all. I can move them easily with my finger though.
 

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The top secondary butterfies open by vacuume signal and tylically dont open unless in the water under load.
The lower ones Open mechanically.

Best thing to do is rebuild carb.

It looks pretty mucked up in the photo...
 
The top "green" butterflies as I said are opened by vacumm signal but that is also controlled by an adjustable spring setting which i will not describe in a post, its something that has to be verbally shared. There is a specification for it but for you, understanding how it all works is whats important right now
 
kghost said:
The top secondary butterfies open by vacuume signal and tylically dont open unless in the water under load.
The lower ones Open mechanically.

Best thing to do is rebuild carb.

It looks pretty mucked up in the photo...
Click to expand...
Ah gotcha, I will see if the lower ones open then and report back.

Any other ideas on why it would be only going 30mph and only 3,000 rpms at WOT on the water?
 
makomark said:
The vacuum break is not working...is the vacuum line still connected to it and the carb?
Click to expand...
Great point!
If that does not work it will lock the secondary butterflies closed!!

Connect a tube and suck on it to that choke pull off. If it doesnt pull the linkage its no good and cam be replaced
 
It is the round plastic part and should have a hose about 2 or so inches conneted to the carb body vacuum port.
 
Here is a video of the linkage:


Feels like that Vaccum break isn’t working just based on the fact that when I push it in and let it out the secondaries don’t open.
 
Ok. If you suck on that hose, pull the vacuum and plug it off with your tounge quickly, does it stay fully or does it leak back?
 
Ok, so that is not your issue.

Either you have a vacuum leak in general or the carb is probably in need of a rebuild.

Alao, just reving it on the trailer will not open the secondary top butturfly. It needs a load to cause it fo open.
 
kghost said:
Ok, so that is not your issue.

Either you have a vacuum leak in general or the carb is probably in need of a rebuild.

Alao, just reving it on the trailer will not open the secondary top butturfly. It needs a load to cause it fo open.
Click to expand...
Does it look like the link coming out of the vacuum break is just slipping on the thing that rotates the secondary plates?

Because even when I’m giving it Vaccum the secondary plates do not move at all.
 
I'd say you need to get an idea how much tension is on the air valve spring...

An easy way to do this is to get a 2 ounce sinker (pyramind preferred). make a loop with a wire (or something similar), push one end thru the eye of the sinker and twist is closed. suspend the sinker over the back of the air valve and slowly lower it and see if the air valve opens as it bears the weight of the sinker...if it doesn't, repeat with a 3 oz sinker...
 
makomark said:
I'd say you need to get an idea how much tension is on the air valve spring...

An easy way to do this is to get a 2 ounce sinker (pyramind preferred). make a loop with a wire (or something similar), push one end thru the eye of the sinker and twist is closed. suspend the sinker over the back of the air valve and slowly lower it and see if the air valve opens as it bears the weight of the sinker...if it doesn't, repeat with a 3 oz sinker...
Click to expand...
What air valve?
 
Another thing to check...hook the throttle cable back up and open the throttle to WOT.take a flashlight and push the air valve open and make sure the butterflies UNDER THE AIR VALVE are open.
 
The sinkers are an approximation for the tool to measure the tension on the spring that holds the air valve closed when it isn't locked...
 
Just because you think you did sonething to show us does not mean you understand how it all works.

As i said in my earlier post. The mechanical adjustment is not somthing to type here. To much to explain and understand. Also there is more info to discuss to get a bigger picture of your running engine.

I cant tonight but tonorrow morning if you want, we can have a phone call to diacuss.
I am having cocktails and am done here for tonight.
 
kghost said:
Just because you think you did sonething to show us does not mean you understand how it all works.

As i said in my earlier post. The mechanical adjustment is not somthing to type here. To much to explain and understand. Also there is more info to discuss to get a bigger picture of your running engine.

I cant tonight but tonorrow morning if you want, we can have a phone call to diacuss.
I am having cocktails and am done here for tonight.
Click to expand...
I have a pretty decent understanding of how most of the stuff works.

Not hugely familiar with carbs though.

But the motor has good compression, has good spark, and is correctly timed as well. And was on the lake for 8+ hours yesterday and go around good, just underpowered and doesn’t have the top end I know it should have.

But I’d be down for a call tomorrow.
 
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