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1985 60hp (3cyl) Spec questions.

C

cloudix

Member
What should the compression be on this engine per cyl? How many amps does the charging stator put out? Any one know where i can get a wiring diagram for this engine?

Serial # 0a165427
Model # 1060625

Thanks for any help you can give me.
 
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Check w/your local marina for a "youngtimer". They probably have an old factory manual you could use or at least give you some advice. Try eBay for a factory manual for that year.
 
well i did a compression test on the engine and #1 is a 90 #2 is a 110 and #3 is at 120. Its a running engine, but from those numbers it sounds like time to rebuilt it. What do you think?
 
Possibly,but you won't know that until you split the block.You say this is a running engine so there's not point in pumping power tune in to see if it may loosen up stuck rings.
A good honing and new rings might be all she needs.At worst,bore out #1,an oversize piston and hone the other two and re ring.If you have a manual,do the work yourself and all you need is a shop to hone and bore if necessary,and the most important,take your time and have a a few beers at hand to ease the preassure:D:D
 
Yea, its a good running engine, but i am getting ready to replace my 40hp with this 60hp and just want to have the engine in tip top shape when i install it. Some one told me that you have to acid bath the block on these merc's to get the 2 halfs to split open. Do you know if thats true? think there would be leak's if from the block if i didnt do that?
 
No acid bath required -------That is just absolute nonsense !!
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I totally agree w/racerone. If their is scale buildup in the powerhead maybe the machine shop can give it an ultrasonic bath to loosen any scale in the water jacket. If they don't have one take it to a radiator shop before the machine shop.
 
Typical. Your top cylinder is burnt and needs a hone and re-ring job. Not hard to do, and it will 'come back' if you do it. My triples (I have 3) run about 140 pounds compression on all cylinders.

Jeff
 
Cloudix, I just finished a rebuild of a 1984 60HP, 3 cylinder Mariner with the help of FastJeff and others on this forum. Previous experience was limited to Ski-Doo and Brigg & Stratton. It was fairly straight forward with the help of a Seloc book and plenty of photos. Couple items that I found out, pay close attention to the positioning and orientation of the mercury switch on the starboard side of the motor (I thought it was a capacitor). Stationary timing site mounted to starter base is not set to TDC. I waited 3 months for oversized pistons. I split the block easily. I learned to spin the main crank bearings and if they have any noise, replace. I took the motor in to the shop to have the flywheel pulled, later found a lower cost source for a puller. I thought the mercury switch issue was a bad coil so I'm glad I took it to the shop to verify before replacing the high cost stator coil. The shop guys were an excellent reference when I did get stuck. You just have the bill to deal with but, you keep your sanity.

Good Luck!
MarinerScott
 
FastJeff, So the mercury switch must ground the ignition when tilled. I should be able simply open the lead from the harness and tape it up right? Secondly, I limited the flow of cooling water to the fuel pump by installing an obstruction in the line. I did this to direct more cooling water to the cylinder head. Is there any risk of overheating the exhaust? The water enters the intermediate housing at the rear of the housing. This may help cool the exhaust before entering the intermediate housing. There must have been a lot of water flow before my modifications. I used the old seat from the carb so it only has a small hole now.

Thanks,

Scott
 
Tape that wire. When you block off the water flow to the fuel pump, ALL of the water now goes to the power head and dumps into the leg.

Jeff
 
MarinerScott said:
Good Luck!
MarinerScott
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Thanks for the FYI, that will help me out some. I have rebuilt a 83 merc 40hp. almost the same as this engine and It's a good running engine. I just want to get a bore scope on the cylinder before i figure out if i need to rehone or rebuild with oversized pistons.
 
racerone said:
Pull the bypass cover ( if equipped ) and look at the pistons and rings.
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I must be missing something. how would pulling the bypass cover tell me the condition of the cylinders? I thought you need to bore scope to know for sure that its not out of round and still in specs to be rehoned. Is there a trick that i have missed on this?
 
He means removing the right side intake port cover. This allows you to see the piston skirts and rings (and the bore as well with a bore scope). If the piston is scored, and/or the rings are stuck, the power head will need to come apart.

Jeff

PS: It's been my experience that all but one of the half dozen plus Merc triples to enter my shop had a burnt top cylinder. I was able to "rescue" several of them, however, and have three 60/70 hp decent power heads for my hot rod boat.
 
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ok, i got ya. I just thought that the head had to be removed for the bore guage to be mounted so that it can tell you if the cylinder is out of round. Did'nt know that you can do it from the right intake side. Shows how much experience i have using a bore guage huh?
 
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That engine should have the clam shell cowl and therefore will give you easy access to the exhaust plates...
If you remove those plates, you will be able to see the pistons/rings on the hot side (exhaust). This is where most damage/scoring occurs...
 
ok, i removed the exhaust plate and was able to see the #1 piston had a broken ring and had scored the wall a bit. I tore it completely apart and found out that the engine already has .015 pistons in it. The scoring was not that bad, but the block is in the machine shop. I thought i would onlt be able to goto .030 over but was informed that they no longer do oversize pistons that way (.015, .030 was an old way of doing it). They now offer the pistons on this engine in .010, .020, .030, .040
Does that sound right?

I should know by the end of this week how much i will need to bore it out.
 
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If you give up on this motor (which would be smart--boring and new pistons are very expensive) I would like to buy some parts from you.

Jeff
 
fastjeff said:
If you give up on this motor (which would be smart--boring and new pistons are very expensive) I would like to buy some parts from you.

Jeff
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Boring and honing is not to bad.. 18 bucks per cylinder. Complete rebuild kit for this engine with new pistons is only $470.00 from my supplier.
 
So I have a 1985 mariner 60 hp that the stator wires are missing crewed up by rats or something can some one show me a picture of where each wire hooks up and please
 
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