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1985 220 Crusaders shut down after 20 minutes

J

Joe B

New member
I’ve owned my 36’ Gibson houseboat since 2005. I bought it from the original owner in near mint condition and used it for several years with little to no issues. I had to keep it in storage for several years and in 2022 we finally put it back in the water. Since the first day the twin 220 Crusaders started and ran fine for about 20 minutes and then quit running within a minute or two of each other. No matter what I’ve tried I still have the same problem. So far I’ve added new fuel filter/water separators, new fuel filters, new coils, new audio senders, new temperature senders, new fuel pumps, new thermostats and completely emptied and cleaned and flushed out both fuel tanks. It seems like a vacuum issue but I don’t know how to check for that. Any suggestions for next steps? The engines start fine, runs for about 20 minutes and then shuts off, If I wait a while, they’ll restart and do the same thing.

Joe
 
Have your verified they are running out of fuel and not loosing spark?

And this problem started after the long term storage??
 
It happened after the long term storage. I’m not exactly sure how to verify if fuel stops getting to the motors but I cleaned the tanks, verified the vents were clear and put on new fuel pumps, but I wonder if I should disconnect a fuel line and run fuel in from a separate tank directly to the motors. I assume this would confirm if it’s a vacuum problem in the fuel tanks or lines.. I have 20 gallons of fresh fuel in the tanks with Seafoam added.
 
You can "tee" in a vacuum gauge to the fuel line, on the suction side of the fuel pump...if you have a spin on fuel filter, they typically have unused ports with plugs in them...usually easiest to remove the plug on the outlet side and add a threaded barb to match the hose size the vacuum gauge has...

Easiest check for fuel is at the carb...pop off the flame arrester and push the accelerator pump down and see if you get the full squirt into the primary bores of the carb...

you can check for spark with a clip on timing light...the coil wire is easiest ...
 
are both engines still in their original configuration as far as the wiring goes? specifically the batteries - are there still two independent starting batteries or do the engines share a starting battery?
 
Did you replace the anti-siphon valves ?? Could be sludge in the valves that expands when it gets wet with fuel, particularily if the boat was in storage for a long time.
 
makomark said:
are both engines still in their original configuration as far as the wiring goes? specifically the batteries - are there still two independent starting batteries or do the engines share a starting battery?
Click to expand...
Each engine has a separate battery but there is a third battery connected to the other two batteries, I assumed for extra starting power?
 
The anti-syphon valves are usually built into the hose barbs at the top of the fuel tank where the hoses connect.

The third battery may be the house battery...sounds like it make not be wired optimally but I wud wait until you get the engine problem resolved before tackling that...
 
I’ve been working on the engines when I have time, here is the update. I’ve completely drained and cleaned the fuel tanks, checked for fuel getting to the carbs, changed filters and put in a new fuel pump. I no longer believe fuel distribution is the issue. Since then I’ve had a mechanic help me that thinks he’s narrowed the problem to the coils which he says after about 20 minutes they lose spark and the engine dies. We’ve tried a couple combinations of couls and resistors and now we’ve gotten the motors to run for over an hour, at idle, but he still feels the couls are getting hotter than he hey should. How hot is normal? We might try one more different coil but not sure if that will do it. I haven’t been able to find what the exact resistance should be but I think a lot of the couls are 1.4 or 1.5. If that doesn’t fix it, I don’t know aht to do next.
 
They should be " external resistor required" coils so they well be in the 1.5 ohm range, as should the resistors..the exact value really doesn't matter as most DMMs aren't the accurate reading that value of resistance...

They can get hot enough that you don't want to touch them...

Have you verified that the starting batteries are isolated??

Have you measured the input voltage at the resistors (from the key switches)??
 
I do not have the starting batteries isolated, I will do that first.
Do you recommend a coil and resistor I should try?
I have not measured the voltage at the resistors. The original coils and resistors were replaced with coils with internal resistors by a previous mechanic that I have lost confidence in.
 
The stock parts should be acceptable...

If you have replaced the resistor and the coil and there is no change, they are not the problem....

Have you inspected the points??? have they been replaced (or at least cleaned up) since the long term storage internal? Capacitor replaced? dwell setting verified??
 
That’s part of the problem, I can’t find info for what the stock parts should be or how they were originally wired. The original parts were replaced by someone else with an internal resistors and the wiring was changed.
The previous owner removed the points and put in electronic ignition.
 
Ok...
Who's electronic module is installed? It may change the required wiring.

I will be back to my library shortly and post the diagram...maybe part numbers for the coil and resistor, too..
 
here's the wiring diagram from the owner's manual...

for parts, you can use Sierra 18-5450 for the resistor and Sierra 18-5453 for the coil...NAPA also offers Marine Parts; you can go that route if you want...

the data from the breaker point replacement units would be good to know as well - i may alter the wiring...
 

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  • Crusader wiring at engine.pdf
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ignitor is pertronix's brand name...if it has two wires, the black goes to the coil's <-> post and the red wire goes to the KEY side of the resistor
 
makomark said:
here's the wiring diagram from the owner's manual...

for parts, you can use Sierra 18-5450 for the resistor and Sierra 18-5453 for the coil...NAPA also offers Marine Parts; you can go that route if you want...

the data from the breaker point replacement units would be good to know as well - i may alter the wiring...
Click to expand...
I found the resistors but I’m not finding the coils, is 18-5453 the right number?
 
makomark said:
here's the wiring diagram from the owner's manual...

for parts, you can use Sierra 18-5450 for the resistor and Sierra 18-5453 for the coil...NAPA also offers Marine Parts; you can go that route if you want...

the data from the breaker point replacement units would be good to know as well - i may alter the wiring...
Click to expand...
Did you mean coil #18-5435?
 
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