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1984 Johnson 140 hp model number, but

B

BajaSunsport164

New member
Hi, I have a 1984 Johnson 140 HP. I was looking up some parts by model number, unfortunately the second symbol on my plate is scratched beyond recognition. I believe it is CJ140TLC0, the J being a guess, but I think it is correct. When I search that model number, I get a model number not found response. Any ideas on what model number it might be? I think my VRO fuel pump is going or weak. Has anyone rebuilt the pump as opposed to buying a new one as they are pretty pricey? Thanks for any help.

Rick
 
CJ140TLC0

Rick... Not sure what that "C" at the beginning of the model number stands for, perhaps "Canada". however...........

OMC's code is the word "INTRODUCES" whereas each letter stands for a number. I=1, N=2, T=3, etc etc

J = Johnson
140 = Horsepower
T = PTT
L = Long shaft (20")
C = 8 -
0 = 5 - C0 = 85 (1985) Not 1984
 
joereeves said:
CJ140TLC0

Rick... Not sure what that "C" at the beginning of the model number stands for, perhaps "Canada". however...........

OMC's code is the word "INTRODUCES" whereas each letter stands for a number. I=1, N=2, T=3, etc etc

J = Johnson
140 = Horsepower
T = PTT
L = Long shaft (20")
C = 8 -
0 = 5 - C0 = 85 (1985) Not 1984
Click to expand...

Thanks Joe and Racer for the help, yes I am in Canada so that is likely correct. I swapped the 120 for a 140 after the first season so the 1985 date makes sense too, never thought of it before. Would the VRO pump still be the same for the two years? All the pumps I see online are wired and have a connector mine does not have any wires on it. Will try a search with the different year. Thanks again!
 
Rick... The VRO without the warning system was a big mistake resulting in many powerhead failures. It (the VRO has been upgraded many times. Just enter the part number of "your" VRO and accept the last superseded part number as the one you need if you are indeed planning on replacing and using the VRO setup... some rewiring will need to be performed obviously but that's no big deal.... however the price is!

Frankly I would go the smaller, regular, fuel pump route and pre-mix the fuel as per the previous models. As "racerone" suggests..... $100 or less as compared to 3 or 4 hundred? Easy choice if it were me.
 
Thanks again Joe, I agree that the straight fuel pump would be a wiser choice and the best way to go. I have been adding oil to the gas for a few years just as a precaution, but not at any specific ratio. What gas/ oil ratio would you recommend to run for the motor with the VRO bypassed?
 
THe looper blocks , 1985 on do not have a spot do directly mount an older style pump.-----You would mix at 50:1 on it.-----There are older style pump options.
 
racerone said:
THe looper blocks , 1985 on do not have a spot do directly mount an older style pump.-----You would mix at 50:1 on it.-----There are older style pump options.
Click to expand...

Thanks Racerone, I thought it was 50 to 1 but wasn't positive that was the right ratio. You suggested a 1983 pump previously, because my motor is now a 1985 instead of 1984 does that mean I should be looking for an even earlier pump? And I guess I would have to rig up some kind of a mount for this pump as there are no provisions for it on my block? The one thing that I am trying to figure out is what powers my fuel pump and what would power the replacement pump as there is no mechanical or electrical input on these pumps? My automotive back ground has me wondering how these pumps work. I appreciate all the help everyone has provided, Thank you.
 
The pumps are operated by a + pressure pulse from the crankcase and just a slight negative pulse from the crankcase.-----I know which pump / s I would rig up to run the big looper block motor.------Wait for others to input here on what might work.
 
The VRO operates off of crankcase pressure so it would incorporate three (3) hoses... inlet fuel supply hose... outlet hose to carburetors.... a hose to the crankcase that would power the pump.

Unless your block (crankcase) has the fitting that accepts the regular small two hose fuel pump, you would need the regular small three (3) hose fuel pump and rig a mount for it.

To make sure we're all on the same page...........................

The 1984 140 would be a V4 "Crossflow" engine with 2 dual throat metal carburetors

The 1985 140 would be a V4 "Loop Charged" engine with 4 single throat plastic carburetors.

Which design do you have?
 
Mine is the 1985 4 carb engine you described. So the pump is powered by crankcase pressure, interesting, glad I asked. So would any of you recommend just putting a new diaphragm in the VRO fuel pump and disconnecting the oil injection side of the pump?
 
That would probably be the most economical way to go. Here's the proper way to do that.

********************
(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.
********************
 
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