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1984 Evinrude 70 HP E70TLCRD Questions

J

justintime84

New member
Good evening everyone!

I've got questions on this new to me outboard project and am hoping y'all can help me out! I tried finding info specific to my model on here and didn't have very good luck. So here I am making my own post!

So I did a full update on many things. Paint and decals included! 😂

All OEM Parts -
New stator, timer base, power pack, coils, wires, plugs, rectifier, tilt & trim relays and harness, rebuilt fuel pump, rebuilt carbs, all seals and water pump in the lower unit and new gear oil.

I pulled the throttle cable off the timing tree and did the link and sync on the carbs.

Used the piston stop tool to adjust the pointer to true TDC.

I was planning on doing the Joe R method for timing before going to the water to do a field test/timing.

I had my lower unit submerged in a tank almost level to the cavitation plate. I hooked up the timing light with a tach built in on the number 1 cylinder to check my timing and it was showing 2° btdc, although my idle was high about 1800/1900 RPMS. I tried to mess with the timing to get the idle down a bit but it would start dying about 1400 RPMS.

What could be the cause of my high idle?

What is the proper timing for idle and WOT?

What is a good compression reading for these motors? What is a bad reading?

Is there something I may have missed during this refresh that I should be looking at?


Thank you for your time and help with any of this! Excited to get out there on this beauty!
 
Redo your link and sync you may have a carb slightly open. How are you adjusting idle timing? Because you don't care about idle timing.
 
flyingscott said:
Redo your link and sync you may have a carb slightly open. How are you adjusting idle timing? Because you don't care about idle timing.
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I'll check the carbs again tomorrow. I closely followed the link and sync procedure. I even put a little gentle pressure on the butterfly valve on the side of the carbs when tightening the screws to be sure I removed any backlash. 🤷 I adjusted the timing by moving the trigger/timer base slightly forward or backward and it was messing with my idle. But I didn't advance it more that 2 degrees up or down for a brief second. I disconnected my remote throttle cable to setup the motor on it's own independently, and then I was going to adjust my controls to the motor. I bought a decent timing light with the rpm display on it, not like a cheap one either, and I had the advance setting on 0. Is it possible it's reading my RPMS wrong?
 
justintime84 said:
I'll check the carbs again tomorrow. I closely followed the link and sync procedure. I even put a little gentle pressure on the butterfly valve on the side of the carbs when tightening the screws to be sure I removed any backlash. 🤷 I adjusted the timing by moving the trigger/timer base slightly forward or backward and it was messing with my idle. But I didn't advance it more that 2 degrees up or down for a brief second. I disconnected my remote throttle cable to setup the motor on it's own independently, and then I was going to adjust my controls to the motor. I bought a decent timing light with the rpm display on it, not like a cheap one either, and I had the advance setting on 0. Is it possible it's reading my RPMS wrong
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Does your timing light have a 2 strk button?
 
Stop.------Post your actual compression numbers here.-----Stop adjusting things if you are unsure.---Timing on these motors does not go out of adjustment !!--Water needs to be 8" above the impeller in your test tub.----And you did install a new impeller I hope.
 
racerone said:
Stop.------Post your actual compression numbers here.-----Stop adjusting things if you are unsure.---Timing on these motors does not go out of adjustment !!--Water needs to be 8" above the impeller in your test tub.----And you did install a new impeller I hope.
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Yes, I did change the impeller(OEM rebuild kit).

My manual shows TDC on pickup timing, and says to look at sticker on engine for wot timing(sticker is gone).

Compression when cold cranking came back at 90psi on all 3 cylinders.

I will get my boat in the water for any future tests but figured the way I had it was better than just muffs for doing the Joe R method. I really didn't want to burn up the new impeller when cranking etc.

I looked up the timing light I purchased and it says not for 2 strokes...which I'm assuming means it won't read RPMS correctly and the advance feature won't work. I thought a timing light was a timing light. 🤦 Frustrating. I ordered a separate rpm gauge that winds around the spark plug wire to hopefully get an idea where I'm at on that.
 
Also I've heard some people say there was a service bulletin about moving the nipple from the bottom to the top where the tell tale hooks up to make sure it's not getting an air lock/gap or something with water circulating through? Does this seem accurate? Not trying to drill/tap any holes if it's not really needed.
 
Well your compression is low. Cut your RPMs in half with your current timing light. Why would you use the advance feature on the light? You DO NOT CARE ABOUT IDLE TIMING.
 
flyingscott said:
Well your compression is low. Cut your RPMs in half with your current timing light. Why would you use the advance feature on the light? You DO NOT CARE ABOUT IDLE TIMING.
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Like it needs to be bored over and new pistons/rings, or do you think she'll run okay for a while? Or is it just a mystery?
 
flyingscott said:
Well your compression is low. Cut your RPMs in half with your current timing light. Why would you use the advance feature on the light? You DO NOT CARE ABOUT IDLE TIMING.
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I didn't use the advance feature, it was off when I did my timing. I'm assuming you're cutting the RPMS in half for 2 vs 4 stroke?
 
justintime84 said:
I didn't use the advance feature, it was off when I did my timing. I'm assuming you're cutting the RPMS in half for 2 vs 4 stroke?
Click to expand...
Also, I know we're not concerned about idle timing. I keep saying idle timing and that's my bad. Pickup timing should start advancing from the TDC mark once the little carb roller (in good shape, not worn out) starts moving the tree?
 
Moving the cooling nipple just does NOT APPLY to your motor !----Compression should be about 140 PSI.----So your next step is a test with a known to be good gauge.----If compression is truly 90 PSI , your motor needs work.-----You did not want this opinion.-----But it is the information you need !!
 
racerone said:
Moving the cooling nipple just does NOT APPLY to your motor !----Compression should be about 140 PSI.----So your next step is a test with a known to be good gauge.----If compression is truly 90 PSI , your motor needs work.-----You did not want this opinion.-----But it is the information you need !!
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Well the gauge I have may be faulty considering it was a cheapy from Amazon. At least I really hope that is the case. 😂 I will procure a reliable compression tester and re test!! 🤞🤞
 
I've never used a timing light on an outboard motor. I have no idea who Joe R is either. No idea how you plan to check for WOT timing while holding a timing light either. I'd hate to think you've spent all this money on replacing parts on a motor with such low compression. That's the first thing to check on an outboard motor before buying. As far as setting the timing goes, once you've synchronized the carburetors, turn the motor to TDC and then without letting the flywheel move, (and with the motor turned off!) open up the throttle all the way and the timing should be somewhere between 18 and 20 degrees BTDC. These are the two numbers I've found for your motor for setting the timing.
 
Oldsaltydog said:
I've never used a timing light on an outboard motor. I have no idea who Joe R is either. No idea how you plan to check for WOT timing while holding a timing light either. I'd hate to think you've spent all this money on replacing parts on a motor with such low compression. That's the first thing to check on an outboard motor before buying. As far as setting the timing goes, once you've synchronized the carburetors, turn the motor to TDC and then without letting the flywheel move, (and with the motor turned off!) open up the throttle all the way and the timing should be somewhere between 18 and 20 degrees BTDC. These are the two numbers I've found for your motor for setting the timing.
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Maybe put up a video of how that works? I don't believe it is possible to time an outboard like that.
 
@racerone I've done a compression test on a new tester, and I'm getting 135 psi on all 3 cylinders. I know it's under the 140 you stated it should be at, do you think this is too low still?
 
Oldsaltydog said:
I've never used a timing light on an outboard motor. I have no idea who Joe R is either. No idea how you plan to check for WOT timing while holding a timing light either. I'd hate to think you've spent all this money on replacing parts on a motor with such low compression. That's the first thing to check on an outboard motor before buying. As far as setting the timing goes, once you've synchronized the carburetors, turn the motor to TDC and then without letting the flywheel move, (and with the motor turned off!) open up the throttle all the way and the timing should be somewhere between 18 and 20 degrees BTDC. These are the two numbers I've found for your motor for setting the timing.
Click to expand...


Oldsaltydog said:
All the videos I've watched and forums/SELOC manual I've been reading on say nothing about this way of timing. Do you have a YouTube link to show this method?
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Did the Joe R method of timing this morning and went out on the water today for the fine tuning... she was running like a dream. My WOT timing was right at 19/20°... the SELOC manual I have doesn't give me the actual spec, just says to look at the sticker on the motor. Does that seem fine on the WOT timing? I still don't know what my true RPMS but the carbs are linked and synced and the little post on the side of the carb are perfectly vertical at WOT. Let me know what y'all think. Thanks!
 
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