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1984 6HP Fisherman questions

M

MichielvdLans

Member
Howdy folks,

I bought recently an old Evinrude 6HP which did't ran well. And didn't pump water at all. The carb clean was an easy fix but the waterpump caused me some headaches!! In fact, the drive shaft was seized in the crankshaft /powerhead so I needed to disassemble a lot!! :(:mad: Luckily the impeller key was already missing / thorn to pieces because while I separated the tail I didn't trashed my waterpump housing because the key was still in there.

I left it soaking for a week in penetrating oil, wd40, trashed a pair of vices but eventually the bugger came loose!! Oufffffff!! :cool::cool:

Some pics of the whole operation:

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Ofcourse one bolt snapped to make matters worse.......

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Ready for assembly:

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While dismantling the exhaust cover I found a badly deformed grommet that goes somewhere around the water tube. Since I couldn't locate the right spot and the grommet was wasted anyway I left it out. Used Hylomar to get the whole bottom leak free so I suppose my engine isn't going to miss that grommet. Does anybody knows where that grommet actually belongs? The watertube is tight in the aluminium housing and there's a gasket between the cilinder block and the exhaust.
 

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Last edited:
Never put silicone anywhere on a outboard motor.
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0324045
pull the water tube out and spress the grommet into the hole then install the water tube after you clean the blue crap off
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0324611
Get a can of permatex aviation gasket maker and brush a light coat on both sides of the gasket and place it on the exhaust tube
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OMC-0324604...tem35fe90813a:g:bK8AAOSwsN9XBIm3&vxp=mtrstick the retainer down into the channel to hold the water tube tight and then bolt the tube onto the powerhead.
If you put it together like that you will need to take it apart hopefully you dont burn up the motor.
 
Get a can of saltaway and once you get it running in a barrel of water pour the saltaway in and run it for 1/2 hour or so to flush all the corrosion and looks like salt in the water jacket out.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Never put silicone anywhere on a outboard motor.

Get a can of permatex aviation gasket maker.
Click to expand...

The blue stuff = Hylomar = aviation gasket. :eek:

Thx for explaining where the grommet goes anyway. But since the water tube is some kind of seized in to the exhaust tube I'm not that scared it will come loose. Anyway, I've red that grommet causes often headaches so I'm not replacing it. If it has to be taken apart again due to cooling failure I'll glue the water tube in to the exhaust using an epoxy. :cool: I'll test the engine today with a new impeller.
 
Ok, so today was the big day, testing in the water. After a few pull's the motor starts good, has a nice good waterflow so the impeller change was a good thing.

It runs fine and quite smooth, accept for the high rev's. It accelerates very good but there's a rattle, a loud one when it's high revving. I pulled the flywheel but there are no loose parts.

I do find the flywheel has some play. Could this be the top needle bearing??? I know it's hard do determine from a video.....

 
Run it with a 24 to 1 fuel/oil ratio to see if the noise changes. If the sound is internally generated it should be quieter with the additional oil. If the noise is externally generated (Possibly flywheel} the sound should not change.
 
There should be a little end play in the crank up and down around .003 to .017 inches. If there is slop is side to side the bearing is bad.
 
How does it sound in forward gear at high speed running in neutral is inherently running the motor low on oil also. It takes alot less fuel to rev up and the oil is in the fuel.
 
Ok, I took the boat to the water. In forward gear it makes the same sound in high revs. I get the idea it's the flywheel bouncing into the timing plate of the ignition due to too much play on the bearing. It does have some radial play.

What astonishes me is that the motor from the outside is in perfect conditions but this bearing looks like a weak spot. Compared to my older 6hp sailor from 1979 they changed the lubricating system of this upper bearing. On the 1979 model there's a hose that get's the fuel/ oil up on to the bearing in a 'forced' mode. On this 1984 model I can't find anything like that so I suppose the lubricating goes via the normal way thru the carter during the intake stroke.

Because if I want to change this bearing I have to tear down the whole motor block I'll leave it this way. Too much work and expense. It's a pity 'cause the motor is in super shape for the rest.... Feeling disappointed.... :(
 
The motor has an internal passage way for oil to get to the top bearing !-----The 79 model 6 hp is a fantastic motor and the 84 model is actually a nicer running motor.---How much is " some radial play " in this case ?---There were issues with wrist pin bearings.
 
racerone said:
The motor has an internal passage way for oil to get to the top bearing !-----The 79 model 6 hp is a fantastic motor and the 84 model is actually a nicer running motor.
Click to expand...

Ah ok, I wandered if they didn't have done that. Yep the water pump and gear selected are way better designed.

racerone said:
How much is " some radial play " in this case ?---There were issues with wrist pin bearings.
Click to expand...

Well about some 3mm at the edge of the flywheel. So maybe 1, 1-1/2mm at the bearing itself. It's not really the play that worries me, it's more the horrific clacking that annoys me!
Although I have to admit I'm a bit worried if the crankshaft has play it will affect the bearings in the piston rods as well not?
 
The motor needs to be disassembled now and then determine if you want to fix it do not run it like it is, or make sure you got oars handy. You have had the motor off it should take all of two hours to determine what it needs if it is still servicable.
 
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