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1984 35 HP Evinrude E35ELCRR Sputters : Video

C

cantelopehead

New member
Hi,

Newbee in boating trying to diagnose/repair Evinrude 2 cycle motor. Spitting and Sputtering at idle about every second. I replaced the fuel pump, have new gas and have removed the carb which "looks" clean - no crap in bowl, float movement nice. Before I get in over my head on a carb rebuild, I thought I'd see what some more experienced people thought.

Video of the motor is here...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Id39Y2WB8KM

Thanks!
 
That type of "Engine Spit Back" is normally caused by a lean setting of the low speed adjustable needle valve.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 
joereeves said:
That type of "Engine Spit Back" is normally caused by a lean setting of the low speed adjustable needle valve.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
Click to expand...

Thanks @joereeves

I'll try this out and report back. I had attempted to adjust the low speed adjustable needle valve prior to replacing the fuel pump. The directions above are just what I need - thanks again!
 
Thanks @joereeves, I will try this and report back. I tried to adjust this valve prior to replacing the fuel pump, but will try again with the EXCELLENT instruction you provided. Thanks again!
 
I happen to have that same motor. On mine, the needle has to be open a lot more than the "normal" 1-1/2 turns. But if open far enough it idles just fine. I think the needle "bearing" probably is worn, and admitting a bit of air. But since it runs fine, I'll leave it alone for now.
 
Guys, thank you very much. Did exactly as suggested and it worked out great. Slow adjustments until running smoothly. Starts up like a champ and jut quietly purrrrrrrrs along. Caught 2 nice northern pike on maiden voyage. Cheers!
 
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