Here is my procedure for re-installing the drive leg, just for reference. It may help you if you don't have a manual.
[h=1]Re-installing the Drive Leg; Alpha & Gen II
First check the gimbal bearing by turning it by hand to make sure it is not rough. Any roughness or stickiness at all is cause to replace it, and this is the time to do it. Give the U joints a few shots of marine grease (if greaseable). Gen II and earlier U joints had grease nipples up until about 1996. If you did not disturb the engine mounts the alignment is likely OK, but it’s wise to check it anyway if you have an alignment bar. If the engine has been moved or the drive has not been off in a while, check it for sure. Check the bellows for tears or soft spots; replace if needed. [/h]
Install new O rings on the drive input shaft. Then liberally grease both the splines and the O ring section of the input shaft. Grease the inside of the gimbal bearing inner race. Tie the trim cylinders up as high as possible out of the way.
Always use a new gasket set and make sure the gasket surfaces are clean. Make sure the large square O ring is in place in the nose compartment of the shaft opening in the gimbal. Use 3M yellow weatherstrip cement to seal it. Make sure the water passage 1-5/8” O.D. O ring is in place; again use 3M yellow weatherstrip cement to hold it. You can use a thin film of lubriplate or 2-4-C on the gasket faces, but do NOT use silicon or any other sealant. Grease the studs and place the gasket on the studs, noting the correct location of the lube oil anti-dribble valve hole.
Put the throttle quadrant control in forward gear. Put the drive in forward; by turning the shift shaft lever arm CW to the straight forward 12 o’clock position, while turning the prop CCW from the rear, to lock it in forward.
Make sure the upper shift shaft crank roller engages the shift slider in the bell housing. The receiver shoe on the bottom of the upper shift shaft (just below the exhaust passage) should be pointed straight forward. Liberally grease the shift slider mechanism and it’s receiver slot in the drive, and check it frequently as you fit the drive into place.
It works best to block or support the drive at about the right height to slide it in, so you don't have to lift it. As you slide the shaft into the gimbal race, do not force it; it should go easily by hand. If the splines don’t mate exactly with the engine coupler (the drive will jam about 3” out), turn the prop shaft slowly CCW until the splines engage. There will also be some resistance as the new shaft O rings compress into the gimbal bearing race (the last inch or so). A few persuasive taps with a rubber hammer will help. Before sliding the drive in the last inch or so is a good time to inspect the shift slider and the upper and lower shift shafts for proper fitup.
It’s OK if necessary to use two of the nuts to evenly seat the drive the last ¾” or so, as long as you are SURE the shift shafts are mating correctly, and there is nothing else binding. Once the drive is fully seated, check forward and reverse gears for proper and complete shifting. If shifting is not right, remove the drive and start again. If OK, progressively tighten the six elastic stop nuts to 45 ft lbs in increments. Then untie and reconnect the trim cylinders. Raise the drive and re-connect the speedo tube fitting just in front of the lower shift shaft.
Lower the drive and fill with Merc high performance gear lube from the bottom until it flows out the top vent. Then insert the vent plug and give it another two shots. Then disconnect the pump and quickly insert the bottom drain plug. Tighten the vent and drain plugs. Top up the monitor reservoir as required to the FULL line.
Test run on a hose. Check for any leaks. Check proper gear shifting and shift interrupt switch operation. Be sure to check the lube oil reservoir level and top up after the first hour or two of use. It will drop slightly as the air bubbles come out, and you don't want to run the gears dry.
Rod
