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1982 johnson 70 won't accelerate after hitting sandbar

There was a service bulletin that came out in 1994 to move the hose to the top of the block.------Must be a good motor if it has not been seen by a proper " boat doctor " for 26 years.----The latest water pump kit with instruction should be on your shopping list !!!
 
ok. thanks. i got the unit lowered about 2 inches. is it supposed to come completely off? seloc manual not much help. shift linkage pulls it up and down. how do i disconnect it?
 
Put one bolt back halfway in to hold the lower unit.-----Starboard side of the motor.---Look for a hitch pin on the shaft that goes under the carburetors.-----Remove that hitch pin.-----Now push that shaft to the port side of the motor.----Rotate slightly.-----Shift rod should now be disconnected.
 
blue_streak said:
ok. thanks. should the motor be vertical or 45*? can you tell this is my first time?? LOL !
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It doesn't really matter, but you'll probably want the motor on a 45 - as your skeg will likely be hitting the dirt before the driveshaft/shift rod clear the midsection if the motor is vertical.
 
timguy said:
Thanks Carmech. Still fixing cars too, but outboards are a "blast"......especially with these old pressurized fuel tanks.
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Timguy, I did not fully understand where you were coming from with that statement the first time....but after reading the other thread about 'aliens taking the pressure tank from a '57 Evinrude'...I am totally laughing ;) Thanks for the humour! I don't know how I missed that thread.
 
We are thinking the strike could be causing binding in the lower unit. You will feel the difference when you turn the motor by hand. You can try to check the difference when in neutral vs. in forward gear.
To address an earlier question you had about the flywheel removal........why? Did you have trouble with removal? Did you use a good quality puller? Did you hammer hard or pry on anything? See Racer post 25.
 
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