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1982 evinrude 150hp no start when warm

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Wheeler97

New member
Hello all ,
My evinrude 150 will start and run fine , I'll shut down for fishing . Once I try to restart the engine it will not start . It cranks fine , is getting fuel but, something is killing the spark. Once I let cool completely it will run fine again. I've already changed the stator . If I disconnect the kill wire to both power packs it will run but run like crap (misfire badly) any help appreciated. Thanks .
 
Your explanation describes the following condition.

Observe closely the stator under the flywheel. If there's a sticky looking substance dripping out of it down on the powerhead area, replace it regardless of what readings you may get out of it.

The above condition may allow it to function (providing AC power to the pack's capacitor) when cold... BUT... when hot, as in shutting down after say a 30 minute run and having all the heat rise top the flywheel area... it would falter in its purpose which results in weak, erratic, and eventually no ignition/spark.

In time, a short time, the stator in that condition would fail altogether.

Let us know what you find.
 
Boobie said:
Joe, I think he said he already changed the stator.
Click to expand...

Correct . I already replaced the stator . I've also heated individual components including power packs , coils, trigger and stator individually with a hair dryer trying to replicate the problem and cannot replicate. It only does it in the situation I described in my original post .

Thanks again
 
Boobie said:
Joe, I think he said he already changed the stator.
Click to expand...

Damn... How could I miss that? Gotta quit mixing yard work, Busch devourment, and this forum in this central Florida Summer heat! :)

In re-reading the problem (post #1)... Wheeler states that disconnecting both kill wires from the two powerpacks, it makes no difference but the engine runs like crap! Removing those black/yellow wires should have no effect on the engine's running quality. That is... unless the bare terminal ends, pins/sockets, whatever are left to bounce around, grounding out.

Leave those two wires connected... then remove the black/yellow wire from the ignition switch. Does that make a difference?
 
joereeves said:
Damn... How could I miss that? Gotta quit mixing yard work, Busch devourment, and this forum in this central Florida Summer heat! :)

In re-reading the problem (post #1)... Wheeler states that disconnecting both kill wires from the two powerpacks, it makes no difference but the engine runs like crap! Removing those black/yellow wires should have no effect on the engine's running quality. That is... unless the bare terminal ends, pins/sockets, whatever are left to bounce around, grounding out.

Leave those two wires connected... then remove the black/yellow wire from the ignition switch. Does that make a difference?
Click to expand...

My apologies, I should've mentioned. I've done that too ( disconnected the black with yellow tracer at the kill switch also . What are the chances the stator i bought was bad ? I know I've bought car parts in the past that were defective, I dont know how often that happens with boat stuff .
 
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