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1982 aq125b cooling problem

S

stenny

New member
I just got this boat and I am having a cooling issue when I hook ear muffs to outdrive it doesn't seem to be getting water to heat exchanger but when I hook the hose to the hose that leads to impeller it works good. I just replaced impeller. It seems like I am better off hooking a hose to engine and making it go into water and bypassing outdrive or add a y pipe and stick a hose in the water. Maybe there is a hose that is cracked in the outdrive or something? I back flowed outdrive. I was thinking maybe some gaskets were gone after impeller maybe too
 
1) I've never seen muffs that work well on Volvo drives.
2) Common problems with Volvo drives:
a) corroded elbow at the point where the raw water hose connects to the drive.
b) bad gasket at the same point as "a"
c) bad hose between the elbow in "a" above and the transom shield... ( the thing that the drive attaches to that is actually mounted on the boat.)

3) Hooking hose to the inlet of the water pump is not a good idea. That pump is design to "suck" at that point, and not be under pressure. If you want to introduce water into the engine at this point, get a 5 gallon pail, let a water hose run freely into the bucket. Attach a short length of hose from the pump inlet and let the other end sit in the bottom of the bucket. NEVER let the bucket run dry and have the hose to the pump suck air! Fill the bucket almost to the top and THEN start the engine.

4) Yes, we know its a Volvo PEnta drive.... which one? Go to

http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent..._engines/Pages/out_of_production_engines.aspx

and find your engine/drive.
 
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So i siliconed water neck on outdrive in 3 hours i can try it out see if it sealed up I didn't have big enough Allen wrench to take it apart so I figured silicone would work since I saw someone else did that and it worked perfect for them. Also the other day my buddy said that water neck was loose so that makes me think that it's no good and that's where the problem is
 
stenny said:
So i siliconed water neck on outdrive in 3 hours i can try it out see if it sealed up I didn't have big enough Allen wrench to take it apart so I figured silicone would work since I saw someone else did that and it worked perfect for them. Also the other day my buddy said that water neck was loose so that makes me think that it's no good and that's where the problem is
Click to expand...

Not likely a permanent fix even if it works.
 
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So the tube that goes from transom to put drive is either no good or that part that connects the inside and outside of the transom is no good or the rubber hose on the inside of the transom because we got water through the engine when we put the copper hose into a cup it sucked it through the engine pefectly3
 
The right angle fitting on the drive leg itself, i.e., that which presumably you sealed, is prone to pin hole corrosion. Also, unless you sealed that fitting PERFECTLY, you will get a vacuum leak and marginal water flow.

On that drive, unless you use VOLVO specific muffs and seal off the small hole on the bottom of the skeg at the same time, you won't get water flow. Best way to get water into 270 series drive is to dunk the leg into a large bucket, filled to the cavitation plate and let a hose free flow water into the bucket.

Using "marine store" muffs is problematic at best.
 
That is the cheapest generic flusher there is. In order for "muffs" to work on your drive, the muffs must completely cover the inlet grills located on the leading edge of the drive... all seven slots on each side have to be covered. You will also need a way to temporarily plug the single hole in the bottom of the skeg. This hole is typically only visible if you are laying down on your back... or you tilt up the drive. DO NOT RUN ENGINE WITH DRIVE TIPPED UP!
If you plug the hole in the bottom of the drive, you cannot use full water pressure from the hose. IF you don't plug the hole, you need enough water flow (full) so that water runs OUT of that hole while the engine is running... and not out from the grill (must be covered by muffs!). Also, if you don't have enough water flow, you will suck air thru that hole. All in all the simplest and safest way is a large bucket with a free running (full bore) hose with the drive immersed enough to have the inlet grills all underwater all the time. The garden supply section of your local hardware store should have a large enough one.
 
If all else is good and ok, the most likely suspect will be the water neck fitting and special beaded gasket...... but there is one caveat here! A fresh beaded gasket (with a perfectly good water neck fitting) will only seal temporarily if the upper pivot tube bushing is severely worn.

If this bushing is worn severely, the pivot tube will oscillate within the bushing, causing the "bead" to not seal completely against the upper portion of the pivot tube.

keep in mind that the upper area of the pivot tube and the water neck fitting raise up out of the water once the boat has reached complaining attitude. If you have a section breach here, it will prevent pump action!

Replacing this upper bushing requires drive removal and disassembly!


.
 
BTW...... the pivot tube turns or rotates against the bead of the beaded gasket. Do not glue or use an adhesive here..... use a waterproof grease.
The gasket may be sealed to the water next fitting only!


.
 
I haven't tried boat in water I have only run it with muffs so I think I need to put it in the water or block off the hole on the drive and try it again
 
I had the same problem with my aq151B I poured water into the external strainer at watched for leaks and yes I found lots of leaks the O-rings were cracked in the in take pipes so I replaced all O-rings runs 160 all day
 
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