Logo

1982 75 hp Head Gasket Installation Question

mike77cj

Regular Contributor
"While removing the head from

"While removing the head from my engine I noticed a fair amount of blue RTV around the water passages below cylinder #3. The Clymer manual states gasket sealing compund is required on both sides of the head gasket during install.

Should I also apply some blue RTV around the water passages on the block and/or on the new head gasket? The arrows in the picture below show where the RTV was on the block. Thanks.

217402.jpg
"
 
"do not use blue rtv it is not

"do not use blue rtv it is not recomended for use on head gaskets.clean the s?!t out of it ,
re surface the head,you can do it your self
with a good piece of plate glass and fine emery cloth , then put the gasket/ head back on.
pay close attn to proper tork seq.
if you must use sealer use the johnrude brand its good stuff.i highly recommend it"
 
"Sealer is not required nor re

"Sealer is not required nor recommended by OMC pertaining to head gaskets. If the gasket is the later shinny type, you'll most likely see the words "Use No Sealer". These type gaskets have a built in sealer that seals using the heat of the engine.

If the gasket is the older type, simply coat it with oil.

Bolt torque is 18 to 20 foot pounds, using the following squence.


9....10
5.....6
1.....2
4.....3
8.....7
12...11 Continue on in an ever widening circle.

When time permits, visit my eBay store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Hi Joe:
No offense, but I do


"Hi Joe:
No offense, but I do not quite agree with Your 'coat with oil'.
Back in the early 80's it worked and was ok, but the gasket material has changed a lot. The old asbestos is gone, and most of the gaskets (head) of today have outer layer made of 'plastic' materials. Oil will not penetrate and 'soften' the gasket surface the same way it did before. Depending on manufacturer there are quite some different sealing needed or not needed. As You say the 'shiny' ones are pre-coated from factory and may not need any. Then there are quite some with pre made strings of 'ATV' or similar around the cooling passages. In general I would say follow the gasket manufacturer/suppliers advice how to treat the gaskets before assembly.
What is just as important is that the metal surfaces on heads and blocks are properly cleaned and leveled out. Looking at the pick above, it seems that it is not only the head that need some treatment. Be sure that the aluminum casting around the sleeve goes all the way up and has a proper sealing surface, or water will soon penetrate in between liner and casting.

Sometimes I think life was easier before!
happy.gif
"
 
"Morton...... I said:

"


"Morton...... I said:

"If the gasket is the older type, simply coat it with oil."

Perhaps it would have been better to insert a year quotation but I assumed that one would have picked up on the "older" notation.

Still, in all my years of practice (1960 to about 1991) I have never used sealer of any kind on a head gasket."
 
Back
Top