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1980 35hp cutting out

I have a 1980 35hp that seems to cut out while running at high speeds it almost feels like something was hit. I have had the carb rebuilt, and the power pack was replaced but this had been an issue prior to this. Not sure what to look at next any ideas?
 
Guessing can be expensive !!-------------Do a compression test to determine the overall health of the motor.----------Then check to see if you have a strong spark on both cylinders .-It should fire across a 7/16" gap on both.-----Run the motor with a timing light to determine if it is an ignition issue or something else.------I assume all fuel fittings ( o-rings in them ) have been checked and that there is no water in the fuel tank.----------What happens when you operate the manual fuel pump at high speeds ???
 
Disconnect the black/yellow wire into the power pack to eliminate a stop circuit error. Note that the engine will not stop the 'normal' way, kill it with the choke. (only for testing)
 
Almost feels like something was hit? Read on................

(Jumping Out Of Gear - Manual Type)
(J. Reeves)
This pertains to lower units on all OMC manual shift outboard engines, or any OMC engine with lower units defined as a Shift Assist or a Hydro Electric Shift unit which incorporates a "Shifter Clutch Dog".
Within the lower unit, splined to the prop shaft is what is most often referred to as a clutch dog, hereafter simply called dog. The dog has at least two lobes protruding from it on both ends, facing both forward and reverse gear.

The forward and reverse gears also have lobes built into them near their center area. When the engine is running, in neutral, the gears are spinning constantly via the driveshaft being connected directly to the powerhead crankshaft, but the propeller does not turn due to the fact that the dog is centered between the two gears, and the dog lobes are not touching either of the gear lobes.

When the unit is put into either gear, shift linkages force the dog (and its lobes of course) to engage the lobes of the gear. The lobes of the spinning gear grab the lobes of the dog, and since the dog is splined to the prop shaft, the propeller turns.

The lobes of the dog and gears are precisely machined, most with right angled edges that could be installed in either direction, and some with angles slightly varied that must be installed in one direction only (one end only must face the propeller). Dogs that can be installed in one direction only, if reversed, even if the dog and both gears were new.... would jump out of gear almost immediately. Keep in mind that the lobes are precisely machined with sharp angles!

Due to improper adjustment or worn shift linkages, but usually due to improper slow shifting, those precisely machined sharp edges of the lobes become slightly rounded. Now, with those lobes rounded, as the rpms increase, the pressure of the gear lobes upon the dog lobes increases to a point whereas they are forced apart (jumping out of gear), and due (usually) to the shift cable keeping tension on the engines shift linkages..... the unit is forced back into gear giving one the sensation that the engine has hit something, and the cycle continues.

Some boaters with manual shift engines have the mistaken belief that shifting slowly is taking it easy on all of the shifting components..... Wrong! Shifting slowly allows those precisely machined sharp edges of the dog and gears to click, clank, bang, slam against each other many times before they are finally forced into alignment with each other..... and this is what rounds those edges off! The proper way to shift is to snap the unit into gear as quickly as possible.

OR..............


(Centering Shift Cable)
(J. Reeves)
When all is as it should be, the proper method to adjust the shift cable is to disconnect the cable from the engine.

Move the shift linkage on the engine to find the center of the play in neutral, and when found, leave it centered.
Now, grab the end of the shift cable sleeve, push and pull it to find the center of the play there, and center that play.

Adjust the trunion on the threaded portion of the shift cable so that the centered play of the cable lines up with the centered play of the engine's shift linkage. Install and lock the shift cable with the retaining clamp in that position. That's it.
 
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I have a 1979 Johnson 35hp, model# 35E79A that had a similar problem.The problem is play or movement in your armature plate and delphin ring which causes eratic spark plug fire.Rough running and cutting out.Check your armature plate and support ring for any side to side movement.Hope I helped you,The SturgeonGeneral.
 
Disconnect the black/yellow wire into the power pack to eliminate a stop circuit error. Note that the engine will not stop the 'normal' way, kill it with the choke. (only for testing)

I pulled the Black/Yellow wire last night and ran it I had the same result no changes . I did get a response from someone who had the same similar issue to find the armature plate had play ( side to side ) have you come across this as well ?
 
I disconnected the Black/Yellow wire from the power pack last night I had no change . I did get a response from someone who has a 1979 Johnson 35 hp to find the armature plate had movement side to side had you or anyone else run into this issue as well ? I will check tonight.
 
Post # 2 suggests running it with a timing light !!!! ------------simple ----------------that would find ignition issues at full throttle.
 
I will try this today , it would be recommended to run it full with a timing light in a tank or equivilant , is this correct in order to keep it under a load ?
 
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Run it on the boat --------Lay the light on the floor / seat / whatever and observe the flashing-------------Black spots / intermittant flashing indicate ignition problems.--------Simple " no cost " trouble shooting is the way to go.
 
I ran the boat last night with the timing light on it, as it cuts out and back in again I cannot see if the lights blacks out it happens so fast .I can see running at high idle the ignition is misfiring .I checked the timing running at high idle the timing is not at 30 degrees its at around 20 or so . I am unclear if I am checking the timing correctly .and oh yeah I tested the spark and the coils both went 7/16 " one was a little more yellow with less snap to it so I replaced the coil retested and found it was nice and crisp . I thought this would had mad a difference but no change .To revisit the condition // I run the boat high just at plane running along thinking ok its all good then bang it cuts out then back on real fast ( On /Off ) then for awhile it will run on plane still , it will cut out again , I slow down and you can clearly here it is now miss firing at idle much more worse than before ? It feels like we hit something in the water ,but it does not happen in the same spot everytime , it happens (in time) the same amount everytime though.
 
If it actually feels like the engine hits something underwater, and the engine jerks on the transom, I suggest you re-read my previous post.
 
I explained in my last post the results of the timing light it seems not to change and timing mark alignments seem at 20 degrees not thirty where they are supposed to be , Please advise how to correctly check the timing Thank You,
 
30 degrees is for full throttle , full advance of the timing.------------------You could check this cranking with an empty carburetor.--------Nuetral safety bypassed.
 
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