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1979 Johnson Javelin 100 HP - Replacing Throttle Clevis Question

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wit.willy

New member
Good evening everyone, I have a 100tlr79s Johnson Javelin outboard and took it out for the first time this spring and had issues with it when increasing the throttle. When I got home, took a look at the engine and carbs, and then pulled off the air intake extensions and saw that I had a cracked throttle clevis, plunger to lever (part # 0322405), and this was the reasoning for my engine to bog down and shut off when I tried to take off (Hallelujah, was afraid it was something far worse!). This part is not broken completely, the clevis itself has a side that is broke, so the throttle/choke arm keeps slipping out.

This is my question, the part (0322405) is discontinued and I have scoured the net looking for a replacement (Ebay, iBoats, etc), to no avail; what is one to do here? Would it suffice to just fasten some kind of ring (i.e. key ring) to close the eye and keep the throttle arm in or is there another alternative or replacement part that can be used? I really enjoy the ole ranger aztec, with the javelin 100 on it, and have overcome issues in the past, however I would greatly appreciate any thoughts or suggestions on how to proceed.

Thanks again
The New Guy
Dan
 
That is part of the choke.----Not sure how that can be part of the problem of increasing the throttle.----Any other trouble shooting done.
 
Thank you racerone, i am going off of what I've found online, and am not an experienced engine mechanic of any sort. I appreciate the time you took to review and respond. To bring this a little more into context, the choke arms that hang off of this clevis were disconnected (hanging unconnected from the clevis). With the butterfly valves (?) not able to open or for that matter adjust the air intake, wouldn't this have an effect on the engine firing correctly (I don't know what the proper term for the flaps inside the carburetor, I have heard them referred to as butterfly valves)? For if there is little or no air, coming into the carburetor then it fill be flooded with gasoline and no oxygen to fuel the spark. Or am I thinking way off context, this is a problem I suffer from, I think I have the issue worked out and my thinking is off track. Nonetheless, I have a broken clevis, that needs to be replaced, any suggestions on what to use? I tried autozone, etc. to see if they might have a similar part, but to no avail. I may just bend or run wire around the remaining plastic clevis to keep the choke arms engaged, just searching for any advice on this particular issue. Once again thanks, appreciate the willingness to help!
 
Picked up a 100 Javelin last year for parts ( cowling was mint )----Does the manual choke lever hold butterflies open in one position ??---I can't remember if it does on 79 models.----Compression test results are?---Good spark on all 4 leads ?
 
So last summer, this outboard gave me lots of issues, would idle fine but when put under full load and throttle the engine would start to bog and eventually shut off. We ran compression tests on all four cylinders, sorry don't remember the numbers (for some reason upper 80's is coming to my mind), but the difference between the cylinders was less than 5. There were good spark on all four leads, and then i disassembled the carbs, cleaned, and put all new parts in, replacing a jet that i accidentally chipped trying to remove. The end result was still, the bogging at high rpm's, come to find out it was the fuel line collapsing and starving the engine for gas. Replaced the fuel line (3/16) with the recommended (5/16) and it purred for the rest of the summer and fall, no issues.

That backstory being stated, the carbs were drained and the boat was housed over the winter, I'm sure there is a possibility of a spark going bad or the compression shifting, and I will take a look into that in the near future just to make sure, but for the present I have just frankensteined the fractured clevis with some wire and duct tape to see if the issue may be resolved or not. The manual choke does hold both butterflies up, perpendicular to the carb when it is activated, just that position, when it is deactivated they fall down. The issue was that these carbs weren't synchronized, because the choke control arms had disconnected from the clevis. Only the upper carb was being activated by the manual choke and the remote throttle choke, and when I drained both carbs after having this issue, the upper carb was dry, but the bottom carb had fuel in its well. This makes me believe that the engine because of my own doing, was pumping fuel into the carbs trying to start the engine, and only the upper carb could satiate the oxygen/gas ratio required, the bottom carb being disconnected was left all by its lonesome, filling up with gas, with no oxygen to help fuel the spark.

I will test this and update my findings, if you believe there may be a compression or spark issue I thank you for your insight. If the problem still remains after the test, I will test these and post my findings. Thanks again racerone, appreciate your insight and assistance, have a good day!
 
So had to leave town for work, but to update, took the boat out last Friday and diagnosed that the two right cylinders weren't firing. Brought it home and checked spark and nothing, so props "racerone" you called it from the get go (tip of the hat to ya good sir). Would this be a CD4 power pack issue or could there be another issue here? Appreciate the help, thanks in advance
 
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