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1979 Evinrude 115 electrical problems

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Bjsmith919

Regular Contributor
Hey guys, new here and I really could use your help. I have a 79 Evinrude 115 that has no spark on any cylinders. I've read through some of the older posts but am just as lost as before I read them. I disconnected the big red barrel plug and jumped the solenoid and still no fire anywhere. It's set up for about two years so I cranked it up in the yard with the muffs last weekend and it run fine. Took it to the lake the other day and nothing. I've cleaned all of the connectors and it's got a good strong battery in it. I'm lost guys, any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Have "all" of the spark plugs removed when you test for spark so as to obtain the highest rpm possible.

The gap for the spark to jump must be a 7/16" gap.

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

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If still no spark, look very closely at the stator under the flywheel. If there appears to be a sticky looking substance dripping down on the powerhead... replace the stator.
 
Ok, thanks. I'll try that tomorrow. I've tested every plug already one at a time and get nothing. What does having all of them out do? Make it spin faster?
 
The stator under the flywheel is a two fold component... the beginning of both the battery charging system and also the ignition setup. There's a large black coil within the stator at the extreme front of the stator and another one at the extreme rear of the stator.

The flywheel magnets must fly by those two coils with at least 300 rpms in order for them to provide approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack capacitor, needed to energize the powerpack/ignition.

If still no spark, temporarily remove the black/yellow wire (kill circuit) from the ignition switch. If you now have proper spark BUT only with that black/yellow wire disconnected, replace the ignition switch.

Should there be a sticky looking substance dripping down from the stator upon the powerhead, that would cause a AC voltage drop to the powerpack, in which case, replace it.
 
Thanks for the input. Gonna try all of this out in the morning and get back to you. I hope it's not the stator, they're pricy aren't they?
 
Bjsmith919 said:
Thanks for the input. Gonna try all of this out in the morning and get back to you. I hope it's not the stator, they're pricy aren't they?
Click to expand...

Yes indeed they are.... anything that's associated with boating falls into that expensive area. Sitting down at the table, we try not to think of the actual cost of that fish. :cool:
 
So, I made the board for 4 cylinders today. Took all of the plugs out and still no spark. As far as the stator, nothing seemed to be dripping or oozing from it. Looks clean, I guess, for a 79 model. What can I do next?
 
That engine has dual powerpacks and it's very unlikely that both powerpacks have failed UNLESS someone has accidentally applied 12 volts to that black/yellow wire at one time or another.

Check the black/yellow wire for internal shorts within the engine's wiring harness and large red electrical plug. FYI, I have personally encountered that wire being shorted out in the large red plug. Do this by simply finding the black/yellow wire at the powerpacks and disconnect them from the wiring harness. If you now have spark, the usual routine is to cut the wire at the large red plug (both sides) and jump over it via jumpers.
 
The only tests I've run on it is the test you told me about and a buddy of mine told me to unhook the big red plug and jumped the solenoid to rule out the key and kill switch. That wouldn't have applied 12v to them inadvertently would it? I'll trace that wire down when I get off of work today. Once again, thank you for the help.
 
Bjsmith919 said:
The only tests I've run on it is the test you told me about and a buddy of mine told me to unhook the big red plug and jumped the solenoid to rule out the key and kill switch. That wouldn't have applied 12v to them inadvertently would it? I'll trace that wire down when I get off of work today. Once again, thank you for the help.
Click to expand...

No, that wouldn't have applied voltage to anything except the starter solenoid. Never jump the solenoid via large terminal to large terminal.... too many BIG sparks flying around. use a small jumper from the battery cable attached to the solenoid to the small 3/8" nut terminal that engages it. You're probably already aware of that but it's worth mentioning.
 
Actually, no I wasn't but I am now. Thanks for that tip. I'm not really familiar with these outboards, or any for that matter but I am good with my hands so I would love to try to be able to fix this by myself, plus I can't afford to take it to a mechanic right now so all the help and tips are much appreciated. I'll get back with you this afternoon on how my wire tracing went. Thanks again
 
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you guys, been a very busy couple of days at work plus had a death in the family. Anyways, my uncle come over Sunday to see if he could figure out what was going on with it. He took the flywheel off and the magnets on the stator and the ones in the flywheel had a pretty good coating of rust on them. He cleaned them up with some fine grit sandpaper. Whatever that round thing is inside the stator had a yellowish film on in and he cleaned that off also. Finally there was a ground wire behind the big red plug that I somehow missed that needed shining up. Well, he did all of that, put it back together, turned the key over and she cranked right up. Hopefully he solved all of the problems that I was having with it. One thing he told me that kind of bothered me was some part, I can't remember the name of now, may be bad but I won't know until I put it in the water. Something about if that part is bad the water will create a ground and not let the motor start. Hopefully that won't be the case as I really want to get out this weekend. Thank you guys for all of your help.
 
That flywheel nut MUST be torqued to 105 foot pounds or else it will absolutely shear. Check with your uncle to see that the nut was indeed torqued properly.
 
Will do. He had an electric 1/2" impact driver he took it off and put it back on with. He's gone back to Greenville now, is there a way I can check it after its already back on and tightened down
 
You state... "Do you know what he's talking about that will ground out the motor when in the water and cause it not to crank?"

No, I suggest you invest in a phone call to ask him.

Tightening a flywheel nut with a impact driver results in having the nut too tight or too loose, either of which will result in problems, the lesser of which is a sheared flywheel key which throws the engine out of time and damages the taper of both the flywheel and the crankshaft.

You'll need a torque wrench capable of attaining 105 foot pounds, a socket to fit the flywheel nut, and a spanner wrench to keep the flywheel from turning when you torque the nut. A spanner wrench si what mechanics use to turn a automotive flywheel when installing a manual shift clutch pressure plate... a typical one is pictured below, available at any automotive parts type store

Spanner-2.jpg
 
He said it was a trigger that would cause it to ground out when in water. I'll have to buy a torque when choosing and spanner wrench to get it set right. Thank you for the info
 
If that is what he said about the trigger , I would say " thanks for the advice " and I would chuckle and not ask for any more advice from him !
 
He knew more about it than I did and it was running when he left so I don't want to talk too much smack to him, lol. So I'm guessing my mind should be at ease about that?
 
Bjsmith919 said:
He said it was a trigger that would cause it to ground out when in water. I'll have to buy a torque when choosing and spanner wrench to get it set right. Thank you for the info
Click to expand...

Being in the water would have no effect on the "trigger" (sensor)... an exposed bare wire from it would create a problem.

Many auto parts stores loan tools out to residents who would be using them on a one time basis... worth checking into.
 
Ok, back to square one. The motor cranked and ran 4 different times in the yard on the muffs. Was finally able to try to get on the lake today and guess what. Wouldn't crank. Bought it back home and once again I have no spark on any cylinder. What is going on? It is becoming very frustrating. Please help if you have any idea of what it could be. Thanks in advance.
 
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