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1979 Bayliner/Chris Craft powered?

Jwrig43

New member
Hello,


Can anyone offer some input? I am not sure I am at the right forum. We are trying to get our boat going before summer ends with is soon here in Greenland.

We are having a hard time getting the engines to start. Tell you what we have done and were we are at currently. We ended up repowering the boat with 2 reman engines.(one was stuck). We installed a new flame thrower distributer, coil, plugs and wires. We also installed new fuel mechanical lift pumps, carbs, and starters. We ran both engines out of the boat before installing to try and work any kind of problems before going into the boat. Got both engines timed at 10 BDC and it was ran with good oil pressure, temps okay, and good water flow out of exhasut. Ran them to seat cams for about 25 min. Both engines started, but they started hard before we put them in the boat. When it was out of the boat, I dismissed it as a weak battery, and didnt really worrry because of all of my electrical wiring was eliminated except 1 of my battery wires that I used to start while out of the boat. (I will replace that Monday, just to get in out of my head). I am lost with this now.

I feel the staters spin too slow. I am used to car and truck starters. They spin a 350 way faster than the new starters that I have spin. I have ARCO Marine 3 bolt starters installed. Do they always spin rather slowly? I have never heard a good running older Chris Craft motor start. Voltage reading at the single post terminal of the starter during cranking is about 11.05 v. (Battery voltage is 12.6) We tried a new battery and same thing. I am dropping about a 1.5v before the starter somewhere, but unsure of where or if that is too much.
What do you think?
Also is there a wiring schematic of these older 79 Bayliners/Chris craft powered boats available anywhere?
The batteries- it had 2 that I believe were wired in Parallel. I have tried parallel wiring 2 good batteries to boost the cranking amps. It made it a little better, but still a little too slow cranking than what I like to hear. The starter solenoid is new as well.

Also seems the starter will not stay engaged and keep things spinning. Its like it will spin over a time or to and release (zing sound). Retry, retry and same thing. Interesting thing this is a new starter- reinstalled the old starter- spun just a little faster and got it to start once while in boat, but cant get a consistent start. I would think the new starter would be better?? Each time I try to crank for extended periods I will flood the engine. I have to remove the back 4 plugs, clean and retry. I paint marked my timing while it was out, so I would not second quess while in boat, but I am at the point of second quessing everything now- Like why did I start this project
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Just below I have added a link for anyone to take a listen to the engine with plugs out. The transmission drive shift spinds while in neutral. The camera is set to view but you can see and hear it. The trans spun this way before the repower and started fine, and seemed to do okay. I just want to know is this normal spin speed for a plugs out and using the heavy duty old starters. Like I said, I am used to new car and truck starters which spins way faster. I just think if I get this to spin faster it will run okay. Maybe I got a too tight remain engine?? Thanks in advance for any help.
JRW
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Atr1t9NAvnYQwZRDLhLOcv0-MNhUAa5W/view?usp=sharing
 
the gear's output shaft should NOT be spinning like that....are you sure the shift level is in neutral?

If the gear is in neutral, the drive plates are probably warped = gears needs to be overhauled...

do both output shafts spin while cranking over the engines?
 
the gear's output shaft should NOT be spinning like that....are you sure the shift level is in neutral?

If the gear is in neutral, the drive plates are probably warped = gears needs to be overhauled...

do both output shafts spin while cranking over the engines?

Yes it’s in the marked neutral position. Even tried moving the indicator around. No the other one doesn’t spin like this one. I know it’s not normal but hoping to just get in running and try engines out and address the transmission later. Had no idea what shape the transmission was in as this was the stuck engine before the repairs. Thanks
 
Looks like you are looking for help on the BOC Tech Section forum also.
Please see my post #4...... I made a few suggestions regarding the starter motor style, and a few suggestions regarding your ignition advance.

As for the one transmission not maintaining neutral..... these require oil pump pressure to compress the clutch pack and engage.
During cranking RPM only, it should not be engaging.
I would agree with Mark.... it's likely that some or all of the plates are warped.




.
 
Looks like you are looking for help on the BOC Tech Section forum also.
Please see my post #4...... I made a few suggestions regarding the starter motor style, and a few suggestions regarding your ignition advance.

As for the one transmission not maintaining neutral..... these require oil pump pressure to compress the clutch pack and engage.
During cranking RPM only, it should not be engaging.
I would agree with Mark.... it's likely that some or all of the plates are warped.






.

I am sorry, but what and where is the BOC Tech Section? I go to the top of page and don't see anything. Thank you
for the input.
 
Is this not you on the BOC?


https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/...gc12/532394-1979-bayliner-chris-craft-powered


It was posted by a person who was using the same user name and he asked the same questions! :D




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yes, it’s me. Thanks. Forgot I submitted a post there. Appreciate the input. I had a .4 voltage drop on my positive cable. Replaced and it’s better but I don’t like how slow this new starter sounds. Yes I have the large Arco stater- the first one pictured. I also believe my batteries aren’t the greatest although the local shops tested and says they are. Thanks for the input.
 
Yea thought about my painted surfaces- bypassed with a thick new ground wire from the battery to one of the starter bolts. Made no difference. For whatever reason I drop .25v on my new ground wire but swapped with another and same so ?? Made sure the mating surfaces there were clean. I am going to try a different battery and see what happens.
 
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yes, it’s me. Thanks. Forgot I submitted a post there. Appreciate the input. I had a .4 voltage drop on my positive cable. Replaced and it’s better but I don’t like how slow this new starter sounds. Yes I have the large Arco stater- the first one pictured. I also believe my batteries aren’t the greatest although the local shops tested and says they are. Thanks for the input.

Get rid of those old school Bendix style starter motors!
Return them and get the HTGR/PMGR motors.

Yea thought about my painted surfaces- bypassed with a thick new ground wire from the battery to one of the starter bolts. Made no difference. For whatever reason I drop .25v on my new ground wire but swapped with another and same so ?? Made sure the mating surfaces there were clean. I am going to try a different battery and see what happens.
Again, get rid of those old school Bendix style starter motors! Return them and get the HTGR/PMGR motors.

I will be posting to your BOC thread from here on out!
 
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