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1979 6hp questions (Evinrude 6905E)

bajaking

New member
First post, and first comment: awesome site! What a great resource, particularly the parts diagrams and shopping inventory listed below them. Genius.
I bought a neglected sailboat recently that came with an Evinrude 6905E. It was always used in salt water with unknown maintenance history. After changing the plugs, the lower unit oil, and installing a new fuel tank+line, it fired right up and ran okay for the first 10 or so hours of use (just marina in/outs and a couple 2 hour+ motor trips). However, a few problems have arisen. It's my first outboard, so I'm mostly clueless. I have questions needing answers, and also a few theories I'd appreciate opinions on.

6905E parts diagrams

White smoke
: I get a lot of it. I pulled the spark plugs and they're black with very tiny bumps, but no buildup and the gaps are clear. According to my Clymer manual, these two things indicate heavy carbon buildup. I also suspect I've been using too rich an oil mixture. The little oil measuring container I use indicates 50 (or 40?)-to-1 for older evinrudes, and that's what I've used, but I recall reading somewhere 100-to-1 is appropriate for this engine. I've read about using Seafoam to clean up the carbon, so I'm going to try that. Am I on the right track here?

Shifter is stiff: It was always stiff but manageable to shift with one hand, but during my last outing it was nearly impossible, with all my might, to get it into forward. Neutral and reverse are only slightly easier. I tried to remove the lower unit to see if I can isolate the problem to the handle/power head area, or lower unit area. But I couldn't...

How to remove lower unit?: Clymer says that after removing the bolts that hold the gear case, exhaust housing extension, and exhaust housing together, I should be able to separate them enough to access the shift rod connector (gearcase part 58). However, I can barely get an 1/8" separation between them, and using a flashlight I don't see anything resembling the connector anyway. Just rods/tubes and a lot of green gunk. What am I missing here? I'd also like to service the water pump and put a fresh impeller while I'm at it, once I get the L/U off.

Lubrication port on shift handle?: On the handle (exhaust housing part 19) there appears to be a small lubrication port. I shot some WD-40 in there out of desperation to loosen up the shift mechanism. Is that what this is for? I suspect it just lubes the handle itself and no other part of the shifting mechanism. No mention of this port in Clymer.

Removal/Servicing of gears: I'm able to remove the prop from the shaft. The prop bushing assembly (gearcase part 62) appears to be pretty well fixed into the prop. Is this a problem? I can't tell if there is an intact O-ring (part 10), which probably means it requires replacement. I assume I have to disassemble the gearcase housing to get at the rest of the gears for inspection/lubrication/replacement, is this true?

Water intake screen missing?: According to the gearcase diagram, the water intake -- the large opening on the gearcase facing aft just above the prop -- should have a screen on it (parts 23,24). Makes sense to me. Mine is missing. I can look right up in there and see what looks like some cylinders, I'm guessing the shaft or pilot shaft and shift rod. Plus a whole lot of green gunk. I guess I should do a long fresh water flush for the green gunk, and install an intake screen?

That's it for now. Thanks for reading (& hopefully responding!).
 
Don't even think about running it on 100:1 , you will do damage.---------A new waterpump impeller should be installed.----------Check thermostat on top of the cylinder head too.--Clymer manual is correct for waterpump service.---------Salt water will cause corrosion on any bushing ( plastic ) and jam them up.------They just need a good cleaning.
 
Thanks, racerone. I would definitely like to service the waterpump, but can't do that without removing the lower unit. Any ideas on that? Is the shift rod connector that I need to loosen really at a point where I should be able to stick a screwdriver between the exhaust housing and gearcase? Am I just not applying a enough brute force to pull those apart? I'm just afraid of breaking the rod or drive shaft, which are expensive/unavailable.
Oil ratio definitely noted. Will double-check my sources and mixing skills.
 
The instruction you read on removing the lower unit are quite clear !-----------You may need to turn the flywheel slowly ( or the prop with the unit in gear ) as you pull the lower unit down.---A seal drive pin has to go through a slot.
 
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