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1977 55hp Evinrude

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Steve Feola

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I have come into possession o

I have come into possession of this motor which was last used about 5 years ago the starter was froze but other than that the motor seemed to be like brand new from external condition -i have ran this motor for appx 1-2 minutes after replacing starter with muffs on -I guess my question is how can I be assured that the water pump is working correctly and that is not overheating -i plan on taking this into lake for a overall test run -any thing i should be aware of or look out for -also is this a reliable motor from past history -thanks
 
"Steve... Look at the cylinder

"Steve... Look at the cylinder head. There should be a tan wire leading from it to a knife connector which will be covered by a rubber insulating boot. Slide that boot back and with the IGNITION KEY ON, ground that knife connector to the block. You should hear a warning horn sound off which would be the only warning you would hear if the engine started to overheat. Note that the warning horn would sound off before the engine was hot enough to do any damage. If you don't hear that horn, find out why.

The electrical circuit for the horn is: With the key on, 12v to one terminal of the horn, the other terminal leads to the sensor/sender in the cylinder head. When the sensor grounds due to excessive heat, it grounds which completes the circuit, energizing the horn.

With an engine sitting for that length of time, you may encounter fouled, clogged carburetors. A problem of this type would show up as hesitation, or dead spots, or having the engine simply die out when applying throttle. Hopefully you'll be one of the lucky ones.

Pertaining to being a reliable engine... it is a very good design, but the reliability of it now rests with how it's been maintained and its present condition.

Joe
"
 
Thanks Joe for the reply:
Th

Thanks Joe for the reply:
The horn seems to be working fine -although when I was checking it I used one of those pointed lighted circuit testers and nothing was happening -the light would be on but no horn -then I evertime I would try it I would hear just a little thump noise but didn't know where it was coming from -looked all around motor for any thing that resembled a horn (knowing that if you said a horn was there it was there) well finally found that it was coming from the control box -I thought before I tear it open I would try with a solid wire and horn rang out loud and clear.

One other question if I may
will it be ok for me to run motor for 5-10 minutes with muffs on -generally how long does it take for thermostat to open-Thanks again -Steve
 
"Steve.... Yea, those pointed

"Steve.... Yea, those pointed testers are okay for finding voltages etc, but will not act as a ground which is what you needed. Running with a flushette (earmuffs) for any length of time is fine BUT NEVER WALK AWAY from a engine that is running on a flushette as they have been know to drift away from the water intake due to viberation. And always, when using a flushette on the higher horsepower engines, have the water turned on FULL BLAST!

Joe
"
 
Joe -I finally got a chance t

Joe -I finally got a chance to water test this engine and i was hoping to report all is well on this motor but like all things it always something
i have read a lot of the forum post and might have figured it out but I turn to you for correct diagnosis-motor started fine at ramp although seemed to idle a little rough (but i may not sure how its suppose to idle anyway)had to motor out of canal at no wake speed for about 10 minutes and it ran fine when I got to open water i tried to accelerate and motor would start to die and i would return to idle to keep it running-only once did it accept the throttle but i only got it up about half throttle and backed it off -then when trying to throttle up again it would want to die again -(tried this several times)
i pulled cover off -choke was open -ball on tank was not hard but it wasn't that soft either -checked the fuel pump screen and it seemed fine also -not wanting to get stuck out in the lake i limped back in -pulled plugs at ramp looked ok to me -i did notice that one of the hose clamps between the primer ball and tank was loose and wouldnt tighten down but you could still feel pressure in the line itself
so when i got home i put the flushette on and started it up and it ran fine i then increased throttle and it took the acceleration with no problem -did this a few times and never faulted(did this before replacing hose clamp as not to change anything )So my thought is to replace the broken hose clamp on fuel line - but what else ???
is there something that changes when boat is in the water and a true load is put on it. any thoughts would be appreciated -thanks steve
 
"Steve.... On a flushette, the

"Steve.... On a flushette, the engine may seem to run fine, but that's due to the fact that it is more or less a free wheeling thing.... there's absolutely no back pressure on the engine at all. In the water, you have the exhaust forcing its way through a tube of water actually before it can fight its way out through the prop. Also when it is in gear, that prop encounters a great amount of resistance.

Your problems (hesitation/no power) is usually due to the carburetors becoming fouled, clogged, gummed due to sitting. The carbs have fixed brass jets. Any fouling restricts the fuel flow. The cure is to remove, clean, and rebuild the carbs.

One other cause could be a sticking "Timer Base". It is located under the flywheel and is attached to the top of the vertical throttle arm that you see on the starboard (right) side of the engine. If this timer base sticks when you apply throttle, the spark advance stays at a retarded spark. You can check this easy by having someone apply throttle (ENGINE NOT RUNNING) while you observe the movement. If it's necessary to put the engine in gear while you do this, spin the prop while throttle is being applied so that it can go into gear properly. If all is well here, the carbs would be your problem.

Joe
"
 
THANKS JOE for taking the tim

THANKS JOE for taking the time to reply to my headache !
after my post today I went back out to tinker on motor (I have come into possession of a service manual for this motor-got to love the internet !)so feeling a little more comfortable poking around I went and removed the high speed orifice plug on top carb (didnt have the special tool for removal so couldn't get to bottom plug)and it was clean with no signs of any gum - I know that rebuilding the carbs would eliminate any question of them being at fault but I am not the man for the job ! and will probably end up taking the carbs in for rebuild just that the local evinrude repair place sort of makes me feel like they don't want the work -anyway -with the one carb showing signs of cleanliness and I also did check and make sure the spark advance was operating freely -I went and replaced that hose clamp on fuel tank line which seemed to keep the ball firm after pumping up -to test this time I put motor into trash can full of water to create a little backpressure and maybe create a little load when I put into gear -all seem to run fine with this test let it run in gear for a few minutes with no sign of any lagging and the primer bulb stayed firm -the only thing I would say is that there does seem to be a little hesitation between shifting from neutral and forward -I know I know rebuild the carb !! just want to believe that it is simpler than that -thanks for taking the time and I hope you aren't getting baked by all this hot weather like we are having in Michigan - Steve
 
If you can remember back arou

If you can remember back around august 8th i last posted on the 1977 55hp evinrude that i had been working on -I am happy to report that all is well i finally got a chance this past weekend to water test this motor seems to be running great with no hesitation Thanks again for all the help -Steve
 
" Hi all,
This is my first ti

" Hi all,
This is my first time on.
I have a 1980 100hp evinrude which started to emit oil smoke all of a sudden. I have pulled, cleaned and checked the carb parts. cleaned and tested the priming valve. checked gaskets and diaphram in the fuel pump. visually inspected the reed bank. can anyone think of any other non major items to check. This motor loads up with fuel when idling so when it starts (after a fight) in runs rough an very smoky. once it warms up an you can speed up the smoke goes away and it runs smooth and strong. "
 
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