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1976 lower re-build. (Was 302 pops...)

N

Neal Franson

Regular Contributor
Sorry to keep you in suspense, but I have been waiting for replacement parts in order to understand how to get this locknut off of the drive shaft so that I can get to the forward shift mechanism in back. I first ordered a Sierra locknut, but it didn't look like what I was seeing in my unit, so I ordered a Johnson/Evinrud one and just got it, and it also looks diffeerent from what I have on the end of my driveshaft. They were just regular locknuts. What I am seeing looks like a locknut with an extension that sticks out almost half an inch that is kind of conical, and I ground it down with a dremel tool to get two flat edges on it so that I could grab onto it with a wrench or vice grips and actually got down to seeing the threads. The bolt itself is now kind of rounded after several attempts at removal, so I was concentrating on that extended part of what I hope is the end of the locknut, as anything I tried on the hex part of the locknut just kept slipping off.
I also got a spline nut to turn the shaft, so I guess I will just keep trying.
 
Hallajullah! I got the nut off! What was left of it looked more like tin foil - not much left of it. What I was grinding on was apparently the drive shaft - I hope I have enough threads to put the nut back on. I really don't understand, because there were no threads there until I started grinding. I may have to use some liquid steel (epoxy) to hold it, as no new driveshaft is available on this website. Any other websites that may have something like this??
Anyway, what I found is that the clutch spring was broken close to where it attaches to the forward drive gear. Everything else looks like new, except maybe the sleeve that goes over the spring, so I will order those. I already ordered and have the forward drive gear and the clutch hub assembly, that was chipped when the retainer spring popped off, as I found the retaining ring just laying there at the bottom of the housing when I pulled out the prop shaft and saw the end of the clutch hub that it attaches to was chipped. The drive gear had a bad tooth or two, so I ordered it and have it already, as well. I know the coils are good, as I checked them out with a ohmmeter, and they both read 5.4 Ohms, which is right in the middle of the acceptable range. I already have the seals, o-rings and gaskets. I will also order the three allen screws that hold the spring to the drive gear. The pinion gear looks fine. The bearings all look good, but I am usually inclined to replace them, but my budget is a bit tight. I will inspect them further, but for now I will just order what I need.
Attached is the link to my lower:

OMC Stern Drive Lower Gearcase Group 120,140,165,175,190,225,235 Hp Parts for 1976 190hp 990231M Stern Drive

Online inventory of OMC stern drive 990231M lower gearcase group 120,140,165,175,190,225,235 hp parts for 1976 190hp stern drives. Buy a genuine OEM or aftermarket part.
www.marineengine.com www.marineengine.com
 
I know you already ordered many parts.----Those lowers are very durable and easy to find used in my opinion.----Same unit used for many years.
 
I am in Los Angeles. I did find some stuff on E-Bay - a whole lower is about $450 with shipping out of Kansas. They don't say rebuilt, just painted up, I believe.
There is always a compatability issue. They say they are 800 series - I am not sure if that refers to after 1978, or if it also means the before 1978 era. There is also a long and a shorter one, I believe. I am new to this, so am still learning, but building up a lot of experience.
I also found a lower driveshaft, if I need one.
 
Part numbers appear to be different.----Buyer beware.----Shop carefully.-----Good used parts are available in some areas / workshops.----Don't give up yet.
 
I have recieved all the parts and tools that I need and started putting humpty back together again. I got the new forward gear and clutch spring and put them together. Also put together the reverse, not replacing anything there and everything is cleaned-up and painted and ready to go together - hopefully have it pretty together this weekend.
 
I got the lower pretty much together including the exhaust housing and the exhaust rudder. The only thing I had a problem with was in putting the gearcase head on, I need to pull the bearing out to replace the seals, which are behind it, and I haven't found a way to get the bearing out. I looked around at Harbor Frieght and two auto parts dealers and couldn't find a gear puller small enough, or any other tool that would work. I can get a flat screwdriver in there and kind of pry between the bearing and the seals, but don't think it budged. My plan is to heat it up in the oven to 250-300 degrees and maybe it will fall out, or I can pry it with the screwdriver. I will probably have time to do that tomorrow.
 
I got it out! It didn't exactly fall out - I heated it up to 250, then 300 degrees and stood it up so the bearing could fall out, but it didn't. So I took it out hot with gloves and beat it against concrete, until it finally started to come out and punched it out the rest of the way. There are these four nubs on the bottom to absorb the blows, so all is okay. I will have some time to finish it up and mount it this weekend, but also have work to do on my trailer and my truck needs a tune-up.
 
I got it pretty much together, just have to put the upper unit together with the lower. It will be a few weeks until I can take it out for a sea trial.
 
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