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1976 johnson 55hp video test 5 opinions and advice desired

White smoke in the exhaust has always been a good indicator of a blown head gasket. At least in automobiles. No license required to operate, but boat has to be registered if it has a motor of any kind.
 
Sorry, but you can NOT compare trouble shooting of a car engine with your outboard motor.------They are not the same !!
 
racerone I got the correct flywheel key today. I decided before going to the trouble of removing the head i would go ahead and put the correct key in there. I was amazed to find that even with the correct torque the one I had put in there had sheared. So i got my valve grinding paste out and put generous amounts on the tapers of the shaft and flywheel. I think I understand now, if there are imperfections, scratches and what not on the tapers, I am not getting full contact from inside tapers of flywheel to outer tapers of shaft. So there is very little to grab on to, so to speak. Then all the force of cranking the engine is transferred to the key instead. Now the should I just continue to lap by hand or let the starter do the work? If by hand how long do you think would be sufficient?
 
The hardware store keys are usually too big ( sticks out too far ) and then the flywheel does not sit on the crank taper properly.-----------The key is designed to put the flywheel in the correct position ( timing ) and is not designed to drive the flywheel at all. That is why it sheared especially with low torque on the nut.---------------Lap by hand only untill you get a nice matching finish on the tapers.----Will not take but a few minutes if that long.----Water pump key is stainless and a different part # as well.
 
I did as you said and did it by hand. I wish I would have had the foresight to put something under the flywheel and close fitting around the shaft like a rag or something because afterward I realized that the grinding compound was down in the groove of the seal around the shaft. I went to great lengths to make sure I cleaned it out to the best of my abilities. But knowing me I will worry endlessly that I missed some which will eventually work its way down and destroy the seal. I spent the last 45 minutes looking for the flywheel nut. I even enlisted my wife to help me find it. I could not find it. I looked over and over the same spots which were all within arms reach of the motor. My wife eventually spotted it sitting on the flat spot of the exhaust protrusion next to the lifting eye. Go figure. Getting old sucks some times. So I will give it a shot in a few moments.
 
Racerone I owe you big time. I took your way of giving me advice as a personal attack on my intelligence and responded like an ass to you. I apologize profusely on bended knee. After all that it was simply the timing being off because of the flywheel key shearing off. Now If I really want to dial it in good I will need a timing light (got that) a way to read the rpms (don't have that, suggestions that wont cost an arm and a leg) I assume I need to have the lower unit submersed in water for back pressure?

http://youtu.be/AoEOTSMylqk
 
Ran it again today for about 30 mins. It seems to be jumping around more than it should, indicating to me that I have some more work to do. Guess back to basics and check all the linkage to make sure the sync its right. Unless someone tells me a better procedure to follow.

http://youtu.be/Q7f1Lx19AC4
 
Thanks for the info. Yes I made damn sure the flywheel was torqued to spec. I wish I could just take it out, but I still have to rebuild a console for the steering, remount the engine, etc. Most of that I will do this coming weekend. I just wanted to make sure i had the major kinks worked out before I remounted the motor to the boat.
 
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