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1976 Evinrude 55hp

3

338ftw

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Well I got a new to me boat. 1983 bass tracker that I am converting to a Musky boat. It has been powered with a 76 55hp Evinrude. Motor seems to run great as is. I don;t see a pee hole on it though. Also is there anything I should look out for with this motor? Last question can anyone tell me what throttle and shift cables to get for it they need replaced. I need to replace the steering cable also but I think thats universal. I am going to have the motor off to fix the transom so if there is anything you guys can think of that needs done please let me know.

Thanks
 
Hi, make sure carbs and fuel stay clean, non oxy and good quality synthetic like Amsoil. An additive like Sea foam or Amsoil PI is a good idea too. Check service history and change water pump impeller if 10 years or older. Get fishing line off prop shaft seal, change gear lube. Check spark see if it will jump 7/16" with nice hot blue crackle. Clean the cowling insulation out if it is breaking down. Clean it all off and forget about it unless you want to replace the foam with new. Cables, get them on line. Steering gear is always fun too. I just did a fiberglass run about where the cable runs through the expanding foam in the gunnel. Make sure you measure exact length too.
 
Hi, make sure carbs and fuel stay clean, non oxy and good quality synthetic like Amsoil. An additive like Sea foam or Amsoil PI is a good idea too. Check service history and change water pump impeller if 10 years or older. Get fishing line off prop shaft seal, change gear lube. Check spark see if it will jump 7/16" with nice hot blue crackle. Clean the cowling insulation out if it is breaking down. Clean it all off and forget about it unless you want to replace the foam with new. Cables, get them on line. Steering gear is always fun too. I just did a fiberglass run about where the cable runs through the expanding foam in the gunnel. Make sure you measure exact length too. No pee hole until 78 or so.
 
I did a compression test just for fun and it was 153psi top and 150 bottom. It has new coils and plugs and wires. The prop is a little beat up so I am going to replace it. Is there anyway to verify its pumping water when it's running or can a temp gauge be added? I am going to do the water pump while its off the boat i just have to build a stand first. Any ideas on what these weigh?
 
There is a little cover in the back below the powerhead. Couple holes in it, should get some action there. About 220 lbs. Temp gauge can be added but might take some simple fitting work.
 
I got the engine off on the stand yesterday. It looks a lot bigger now lol. I did notice when I was running before I took it off that it wouldn't idle unless I had the lever lifted a little. I'm going to replace all the fuel lines before putting it back on. Is the idle speed screw what controls this?

Pic of this monster lol.

IMG_8119.jpg
 
One other thing. Could someone recommend a good prop for this motor? The one on it is kind of dinged up. I don't know anything about picking props. The motor will be on a 16ft bass tracker and I'm not really looking for top speed as much as easy to get on plane. It's got a 12-1/4x15 on it now whatever that means.
 
Nice stand well made, 4 by 4's for uprights. I see your a carpenter, nice shelving too. The other water pump indicators are in odd spots near the water line. Hard to see when idling in tank or the lake/river. Water comes out a hole facing forward at the seam of the lower unit and exhaust housing (center section). More comes out Just above that behind the motor mount/pivot area. Prop you have is for more speed, you might consider a 14 inch.......the last number is the distance that the prop should move the boat forward with exactly one revolution. That is calculating primarily the working pitch. There are guides to help you determine best choices. I rebuild/weld props here using a mig welder. I use a very expensive alloy that seems to endure rock strikes better than the dark grey alloys that the local shop uses. I do not replace rubber hubs, however.
Excellent compression, a very good looking motor. Idle is simply set with horizontal screw on starbd side up near top. Make sure carb follower hits ramp in middle of hatch marks. Sync butterflys holding firm the roller/follower on lower carb. They have to be opened evenly while operating off the roller, that way any slack in the linkage is worked in to the adjustment.
 
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Check the carb schematic to see jet locations. Make sure all are cleaned carefully to correct orifice size. I use a high quality welding tip cleaner after soaking jets in acetone. Grind a screwdriver so it fits just right and careful not to slip the screwdriver when r&r of jets. Have to check jet sizes and confirm in Marineengine parts for your motor. Sometimes carbs can get swapped between motors and cause a lean condition if not correct jetting. The top carb often will have 1 size larger jet in low or intermediate ports. Many twins have been ruined by overlean top carbs caused by jet restriction. This, however, is most often plaque/debris formation inside the jets.
 
Are the jests marked with the size? I'm going to get a manual for it but I'm just trying to get a list of stuff that I need to check over. You have been more than helpful thanks.
 
Ok there are a lot of adjustable screws on the side of the engine. Am I looking in correct place? Also when the throttle lever is all the way back the roller doesn't even touch the cam. Is that normal with the cable removed? Here is a pic of what I have.
IMG_8128.jpg
 
Definitely consider purchasing the manual if you're to undertake such project (imo). My 1966 60hp Johnson came with its repair manual (not service manual). It's been amazingly helpful. It made a 'mechanic' out of a musician!

: )

But in all seriousness I was able to revive a seized engine, rebuild carb, service pump, etc. all thanks to that manual. Good luck to you.
 
Jet sizes are marked, yes. The roller will not touch the cam when backed to an idle. Manuals are always good to have proper specs and photos, schematics, especially wiring. Best also that Dzp revived the old boat anchor. I love them too, I was raised repairing them as a kid. Still have a ton around and buying more. Doing up a Johnson 1965 18 electric start short shaft now. Some great guy threw it in the landfill, I should say...."set" it in the recycling bin. Hardly a scratch on it. Love the little V4's too, the 85 is my personal favorite.

The idle screw is up near the back of the flywheel starboard, has a rubber tip on it.
 
It's a good thing I have the manual on the way. I can't for the life of me figure out how that screw controls idle. My outboard experience is limited to my 2,5.5 and 6 Evinrudes. I can't count the 250 etec that was on my Bass Cat I just sold. I only took the cover off it to look once lol.
 
timguy said:
I love them too, I was raised repairing them as a kid. Still have a ton around and buying more. Doing up a Johnson 1965 18 electric start short shaft now. Some great guy threw it in the landfill, I should say...."set" it in the recycling bin. Hardly a scratch on it. Love the little V4's too, the 85 is my personal favorite.
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Funny how you develop an attachment to these motors.... I too, grew up with those 70's motor, and I absolutely love them (got to if you want to keep them running! lol)
I actually catch myself watching the same old James Bond movies for the 200th time, just to catch a glimpse of these 60's or 70's boats and motors!.... Am I insane?

338: Your 55HP is gorgeous, and another congratulations on your stand here!
Love this thread, keep us updated!
 
Jupiter Dinghy said:
Funny how you develop an attachment to these motors.... I too, grew up with those 70's motor, and I absolutely love them (got to if you want to keep them running! lol)
I actually catch myself watching the same old James Bond movies for the 200th time, just to catch a glimpse of these 60's or 70's boats and motors!.... Am I insane?

338: Your 55HP is gorgeous, and another congratulations on your stand here!
Love this thread, keep us updated!
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Thanks

I was impressed with how well the engine looked. We bought a cabin on a chain of three lakes up in Wisconsin. The only problem is our cabin is on the middle lake and the boat ramp was on the upper. My 2015 Bass Cat was too wide to fit through the tunnel under the road. When I found this boat I think I was just buying the engine as the boat was in pretty bad shape. It came on an 83 bass tracker 2 that I am restoring now and will make a great Musky fishing boat once I am done.
 
Looks like a "virgin". Check out the carby screws and nuts. Its the little bolt directly below the trigger wires (small bundle). Excellent compression.
Muskies, they are a real bad fish. My friends neighbor lady, years ago up on the Little Fork river, (dark water), was dangling a foot off the side of the canoe, just into the water. She was about 3 years old. Yeah, you guessed it. Had a toe eaten, torn right off, by a good size Musky. These are true predators.
Jupiter: These new boats are for "pussies". I'll fix 'em, but never own one.
 
timguy said:
Looks like a "virgin". Check out the carby screws and nuts. Its the little bolt directly below the trigger wires (small bundle). Excellent compression.
Muskies, they are a real bad fish. My friends neighbor lady, years ago up on the Little Fork river, (dark water), was dangling a foot off the side of the canoe, just into the water. She was about 3 years old. Yeah, you guessed it. Had a toe eaten, torn right off, by a good size Musky. These are true predators.
Jupiter: These new boats are for "pussies". I'll fix 'em, but never own one.
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What do you mean by carby screws? What are they for and what should I be checking? Also what rod attached to the airbox for? I noticed it has some type of what looks like a linkage to the top carb but doesn't seem to be able to move.

I caught my PB Musky this year on our lake it was 53' and 43lb. I caught it in a 12ft flat bottom and that convinced me I didn't need a 45k boat anymore lol .
 
WOW, now thats a fish. The screws I mention are the calibration screws at the throttle butterfly shaft, they are usually dinged up by hacks. Also carb mounting nuts at intake, they are still great and mint looking. Looking at photo is seems the throttle rod is not pushed into the upper carb properly. The choke linkage looks correct.
 
timguy said:
WOW, now thats a fish. The screws I mention are the calibration screws at the throttle butterfly shaft, they are usually dinged up by hacks. Also carb mounting nuts at intake, they are still great and mint looking. Looking at photo is seems the throttle rod is not pushed into the upper carb properly. The choke linkage looks correct.
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I think it's just the angle of the photo. Both carbs open nice and smooth. I will verify it is correct tonight. The needles don't look like they have ever been touched. I figured out that mystery lever on the air box is the manual choke control by looking up diagrams on this site.
 
As I think about my boat layout more I have started to think about ditching the console all together. My question is it possible to convert this 55hp to a tiller operated engine? Or would it be better to buy one already setup that way?
 
Rare do you see this generation twin in a tiller. Not a good hope for conversion. To go tiller you will likely have to change motors.
 
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