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1976 85hp evinrude no spark

D

drucker

New member
I have went on cdi and tried the trouble shooting tips. I have .6016 oem on the brown to brown/yellow. 7.68 oem on black/white#1 to white/black#3. 7.62 oem black/white#2 to white/black#4. What does that tell me? Is my power pack bad or my stater bad. It ran in November but has no fire now.
 
drucker said:
Motor has spark when all the plus are out the motor but no spark when they are in. Not even one plug.
Click to expand...

That says that the motor isn't cranking fast enough. It has to crank at least 200 RPM to have spark. OR the charge coils are bad. Do you see any goo leaking out of them?
 
Drucker... The engine must crank over at least 300 rpm in order for the stator to energize the powerpack.

Disconnect the large RED electrical connector at the engine. Now, using a small jumper wire from the battery cable terminal of the starter solenoid to the 3/8" nut terminal of the solenoid to energize the solenoid and electric starter, test for spark. If you have spark with that RED plug disconnected BUT no spark with it connected, the problem is usually a shorted ignition switch, in which case replace it.

If you have a slow cranking starter, run good known jumper cables from a good known battery directly to the electric starter. If the starter still cranks slow, it will need reworking or replacing. If the starter cranked fast and normal with the jumper cables, then there is a bad connection somewhere in the cable/wire terminals... in which case, remove each terminal and clean thoroughly all terminals and the components they attach to, then tighten them securely with a wrench or pliers... not your gingers if wing nuts are encountered.

With all of the spark plugs removed, the spark should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! The spark plugs must be removed in order to obtain the highest rpm possible. The spark CANNOT be tested with the spark plugs installed.

You can use a poor mans spark tester.... a #2 philips screwdriver tip inserted into the spring connector within the plug boot, then hold the shank of the screwdriver the approximately 7/16" distance away from the powerhead.

Be sure to explain your problem thoroughly and precisely. Your initial post left a lot to be desired which did not pin point the problem you're having.
 
I got plenty of spark with them all out still but none in. I had to replace the rectifier last week because the red wire was corroded off. Do you think this has shorted out the stater.
 
No, a faulty rectifier would not affect the starter.

The spark cannot be tested with the spark plugs installed.

As mentioned previously... if the starter is cranking the engine over slowly, test the starter itself as mentioned in reply #6 (copy/pasted below).

If you have a slow cranking starter, run good known jumper cables from a good known battery directly to the electric starter. If the starter still cranks slow, it will need reworking or replacing. If the starter cranked fast and normal with the jumper cables, then there is a bad connection somewhere in the cable/wire terminals... in which case, remove each terminal and clean thoroughly all terminals and the components they attach to, then tighten them securely with a wrench or pliers... not your gingers if wing nuts are encountered.
 
Several experienced folks have suggested that your starter may be faulty.----The starter motor can not spin the flywheel fast enuff to generate spark with the plugs installed.
 
drucker said:
I got plenty of spark with them all out still but none in. I had to replace the rectifier last week because the red wire was corroded off. Do you think this has shorted out the stater.
Click to expand...

Question is "stator", not "starter", right? Answer is still No. The rectifier is for charging the battery. It uses different coils on the stator than the ignition does.
 
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