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1976 85 Evinrude no power to key switch and motor will not turn over

Jcrutch

New member
Ok So last summer lost all power to start the motor. so I removed the black and yellow wire from power pack and motor started, Since I was at the coast I ran kill wire from power pack to negative post on battery. worked like a charmed and motor has performed like a champ until a couple of weeks ago. I went fishing and went to start the motor and my electric choke would not work so I used the manual choke to get me through the day. I bought a new electric choke switch and replaced it. But no Electric choke still will not work in addition there is Now no power at the key switch and motor will not turn over either. I have jump power from battery to starter and motor turns over. Can someone please give me a little wisdom as to where to go from here. Do I need a new switch or is it the little round thing that choke W/purple&White wire and the switch runs to in the controls where the key is. I went ahead and replaced the power Pack but still no power
Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated
 
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Have you checked the little 20 amp fuse on the motor.----Found in the wiring harness near the solenoid.----Rubber plug that come apart.--Do you have a wiring diagram for this motor.-----Mistakes ( $$$$ ) are easy to make.
 
Ok So I found the fuse and replaced it and motor will turn over now , but electric choke still will not work, is there a fuse for it. I have already installed a new switch for the choke and I can hot wire choke at motor and make it work any more thoughts on this thanks by the way for the help already
 
No guessing here---If the engine has what was called the " thermo electric " choke it works like this.----Cold engine and ignition turned to " on " the choke is partially closed.---Boat operator engages full choke at the control box.----------When engine starts operator lets off choke at the control box.-----The thermo electric switch keeps partial choke on untill engine warms up.--------Most of those were disconnected over the years.----There is also a manual choke lever and best to check what position it is in as well.-----I think the factory also removed the thermo electric choke on late 76 production models.
 
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If what's being discussed here pertains to a choke solenoid that has two wires leading to it... one purple, the other purple/yellow, see the following:

(Temperature Actuated Choke Solenoid Conversion)
(J. Reeves)


Various OMC engines that were manufactured in the later 1960s thru the early 1970s, for example the 1969 55hp Evinrude/Johnson incorporated a dual stage choke solenoid...... easy to identify as they have two wires leading to the solenoid, one purple/white, one purple/yellow.

The purple/yellow is attached at the engine wiring terminal strip to another purple/yellow wire that led to a heat sensor. The initial stage, with the key ON, (purple/yellow), when cold, would keep the choke pulled in half way until the engine warmed up, at which time it would release and open the choke butterfly.

The second stage (purple/white) is attached to another purple/white wire at the engine terminal strip which leads to the choke switch. When the switch was engaged, the choke closed etc.

The problem with this setup is that as the engine got older, the thermostat acted up, water pump became weak, whatever, the heat sensor failed to operate properly and the choke would not release from that half closed position. This would cause the engine to run in a rich fuel mixture condition (flooding, loading up).

The cure to this problem, via a service bulletin from OMC was to remove the solenoid purple/yellow wire from its original location and connect both of the solenoid wires (purple/yellow & purple/white) to the engine wiring harness purple/white wire at the engine terminal strip.

The above change would allow both solenoid wires to be energized when the choke switch is engaged, pulling the choke butterfly in firmly..... and only when the choke switch is engaged.

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