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1975 Johnson 6hp, dies under load

Eventually

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I hate having to post another one of these threads, but I've read just about every other one on the internet. It's long, I hope some of you make it through the whole thing, lol. As stated above:
Worked great last season, fogged out, stored upright indoors. Over the winter I pulled the power head to fix the shift lever, but did not touch the carb/ignition/block/gearcase. Replaced exhaust gasket during reassembly. (but not driveshaft to crankcase gasket?)


Starts on the first pull in neutral, revs great, idles low. Bogs out immediately in forward or reverse gear. If I drop it in with slightly higher idle I can get a handful of prop spins before I have to slide it back into neutral and let it rev back steady again.



Gearcase rebuild: drained oil, checked prop, clutch dog, gears and shift rod, impeller assembly, all fine. Resealed and filled with fresh oil, I can turn the prop with a firm grip.

Crankcase rebuild: Piston rings are clean, sharp-edged and springy, repacked needle bearings, cleaned piston grooves, resealed case. Replaced head gasket, no change. Compression tester waiting to come home with me after work. Thumb check prior to all that felt quite low -manual says "lbs compression rec when compressed: 2 to 4 pounds." which makes no sense. unless that's ring compression? idk (crankcase to driveshaft gasket on order, it's still the original despite pulling the head off multiple times so it's my current theory)

Carb rebuild: float, gaskets, float valve assembly all a few years old, no signs of wear. Bowl and jets appear clean, no signs of varnish or debris. Float valve needle showing first signs of wear, but barely. Low speed needle shows no wear, but also has no packing -just a rubber/nylon washer. My service manual shows two packing washers but not the rubber/nylon one. The guide on here shows all three, yet my original build only has the rubber/nylon washer. That has never been changed, yet has always run fine. (new packing and washer currently on order)

Fuel: New gas tank, new fuel line and bulb.

Ignition: Haven't changed in a few years since doing plugs, wires, condensers, points, oiler wick, timing adjust. Ran fine last year and was not altered. Points still look new. Tossed new plugs in again, no change.


I realize I went in the worst possible order, but now I've made a full lap around the track. What else can I check/try? Thank you in advance for reading my novel, and for any insight you may have.
 
Gearcase rebuild: drained oil, checked prop, clutch dog, gears and shift rod, impeller assembly, all fine. Resealed and filled with fresh oil, I can turn the prop with a firm grip.

Are you doing so while in neutral? In neutral you should be able to spin the prop with one finger
I have a couple of those motors…there should be two packing washers in the low speed needle. Racer gave me a bunch of them when I rebuilt mine.
 
With the driveshaft disconnected I can spin it with two fingers. With the flywheel on I can turn it with some force.

Ordered a 10-pk of packing washers!
 
Something isn’t right. With a totally assembled engine, ready to run…if the shift lever is in neutral, you should be able to turn the prop with one finger.
 
Prop should spin with your little pinky.------Did you line the forward gear thrust bearing up with the pin , yes or no ?
 
Prop should spin with your little pinky.------Did you line the forward gear thrust bearing up with the pin , yes or no ?
Is that inside the gearcase or on the end of the driveshaft under the engine block? It was dying before I took the gearcase apart, so that was all unchanged since it last ran ok.
 
Something isn’t right. With a totally assembled engine, ready to run…if the shift lever is in neutral, you should be able to turn the prop with one finger.
Crap, it was definitely not that easy, I chalked it up to impeller drag. Could the main bearing in the gearcase be worn out or need to be repacked?
 
A FWD gear thrust bearing cannot be on the engine end of the driveshaft.
The small pin up near the powerhead is for the crankshaft seal.
Have a look at the parts diagrams.
 
The bearing on the forward gear MUST be located on a pin in upper housing.----The pin locates it for proper oil flow to the bearing.----So is it located on that pin , yes or no.----The impeller does not turn when turning prop in neutral.
 
Ok, got home after work and gave it a spin in neutral, it is super easy. Turns about 2-3 revolutions before it stops. Followed the service manual pretty carefully so I feel good about it being aligned properly. Plus it worked fine last year and none of that was disassembled since.
 
The bearing on the forward gear MUST be located on a pin in upper housing.----The pin locates it for proper oil flow to the bearing.----So is it located on that pin , yes or no.----The impeller does not turn when turning prop in neutral.

Yep, it is correct.

Also I was mistaken earlier: I had the driveshaft connected in the lower unit with forward gear engaged so I was spinning the impeller, hence the extra torque needed.
 
Solved. One of the points was not closing all the way. Hadn't touched it since tuning the timing after replacing them a few years ago, but there it was. Adjusted the set screw and tightened it down, she runs great again. Thanks for the input, hope this helps someone.
 
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