Re: Powershift II stiffness- Fix the cables!
I realize this is an old thread but I'm updating it to share a fix which applies to most control cables of this type.
Good advice before. In particular disconnect the control cables at the motor and run them to the rear as straight as possible. If the control is still stiff then read on, if not look at the motor gear shift and throttle pivots. Remember, you cannot easily move the control forwards on a stopped motor - move the control until it goes stiff, turn the prop 1/4 turn then go back to the control.
I removed the covers from my (1974?) Powershift II. It was full of grease that must have been overlaid in the early years of regular service. The grease was hard in places and had to be cleaned off.
I slackened both grub screws in the clevis at the control end and pulled off both control cables. I tried moving the cable in and out, no good with fingers, had to use a mole wrench wow! for a solid stainless wire why is it so stiff? I decided to clean up the Powershift controller giving it a good dunking and clean with kerosene, I would then go back and apply a smaller amount of silicone grease to all the moving parts. I realized there's a spring loaded ball to provide the 'detent' action. I might slacken that some. Next on to the control cables:
1. Using strong pliers or a Mole wrench, try to straighten the crooked end a little which was bent by the grub screws - this makes it easier getting the wire in and out of the cable jacket.
2. Pull the wire from the motor end out of the cover jacket completely.
3. Coil the outer jacket so it will fit in a washing up bowl, fix with 2 ties to hold the turns together. Leave the outer jacket submerged in kerosene in the bowl for 15 minutes then hang to dry or push through kerosene with an air blow gun.
4. Carefully inspect the black plastic outer sheath for splits. If your cable is really bad then replace with new. Pay attention to the motor end, especially if you have trim & tilt where the cables can bend a lot. You can repair a short break in the outer jacket with a couple of heatshrink sleeves over the break. In fact, if your motor is trim & tilt, add a couple of 12 inch lengths of heatshrink sleeve at the motor end to each cable. To do this you will have to unthread the threaded brass tubes that are screwed into the cable jacket.
5. Lay the inner wire out straight. If there are any kinks, flatten these out with the Mole wrench grips. If you run your fingers along the wire you will probably feel a hard waxy coating in places. This hardened grease is what increases friction and creates the drag. Using Scotchbrite, dunk it in kerosene and rub the inner wire until it is clean all the way around and along the whole length. After repairing/reinforcing the outer jacket with heat shrink, drop some light 3-in-1 oil in from each end. Hardened grease on the wire seems to be the killer so I would use light oil. If you have an air blow gun then great because you can force oil through with that. If not, add a few drops of oil at a time whilst pushing the wire back into the jacket. When the wire hits the far end you will have to rotate it from the motor end to get it through the hole.
6. With the control cable oiled and back together you should now be able to move it in and out with a finger and thumb!
Job done, it cost you a little time and kerosene, but you saved a packet on buying and fitting new cables.
I don't know if the newer controls are designed differently, but I've always been surprised that my Powershift II and others don't spring back to center idle like a dead mans handle. Just as important as having a kill switch in a high speed power boat.
