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1973 Evinrude 25hp Rope Recoil Issue

C

CaptainA

Member
Hello all! I have a 25hp Evinrude (i think it's a sportster), and the rope won't go back into the flywheel. It was working, then i took out the spring and put it back in, and the rope won't recoil! I can manually recoil it, but thats about it. Thanks for any help! Oh, its a 1969 model as well.:D:D
 
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Did you wind the spring up before you put the rope back in? The general procedure for any recoil is to wind it up until the spring "bottoms out", then back it off at least one full turn until the notch for the rope in the pulley lines up with the hole in the recoil housing the rope feeds through. Then install the rope & let the recoil wind it in.
 
Before you put the rope in the recoil pulley, you have to wind the pulley up as tight as the spring will go, then unwind it at least one full turn. While the spring is still wound up, install the rope through the hole for it in the recoil housing & fasten it onto the pulley however it attaches (knot, clip, clamp, ect.). There is no way to attach the rope before tensioning the spring. It just won't work. You have to tension the spring by winding it up, THEN attach the rope to the recoil pulley.
 
Hint: Before you wind the spring, look at the pulley. See that small, about 1/8" hole? Find a nail or allen wrench, or something the will fit through the hole and keep it handy.

Now wind the pulley all the way and back it off one turn, and stick that nail into the hole. That will keep the pulley from unwinding and you will have both hands free to install the rope.

Warning: If you let that pulley get away from you while winding, it will violently spin backwards and destroy the spring. Hang onto it!!!
 
(Manual Starter Assembly)
(This pertains to the type of Manual Starter Housing that sits over top of the flywheel)
(J. Reeves)

Lay the manual starter housing upside down on the workbench.


Wind the spring "counter clockwise" in your hands so that you can lay it into the housing, having the outer spring end hooked over the retaining pin. Make sure the spring is in there properly (You do not want it to fly out of there).


Holding the spring down, with pliers carefully bend about 3" or 4" (more or less) on the inner portion of the spring in towards the center of the housing. This will allow the pulley pin to enter the retaining hole at the end of the spring properly.


Lay the pulley down over the spring, making sure that the pin on the pulley is secured to the retaining hole on the end of the spring. Install the spindle (center bearing gizzmo), bolt, nut, etc, whatever your particular manual starter may use.


The cord (nylon) should be roughly 72" long. Have a figure 8 knot in one end. Heat the other end so that you could form a point on it, wiping it with a rag when it's burning or hot to a melting point.


Now, with the starter housing still upside down, keeping a firm grip on that starter housing and also the pulley, start winding the pulley in the normal counter clockwise direction. Wind it as far as it will go, then carefully let it back off until the starter pulley cord hole is aligned with the housing cord outlet.


Hold the pulley there and insert the cord in through the inside of the pulley and out through the starter housing. Pull the cord through completely and get a good grip on it. Now let the pulley retract the cord, but hold onto the cord (don't let it fly in there).


If it's obvious that the cord is too long, figuring what will be needed within the handle, shorten it as needed.


Pull the cord out so that about two feet of the cord is exposed. Tie a slip knot so that the cord can't retract back.


Insert the cord into the handle and secure as needed, then release the slip knot allowing the cord to be withdrawn fully. That's all there is to it..

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Thanks, but does anyone know how long the rope has to be? Because the one figh now is just over 4 feet, so i ordered 8 feet of new rope. Will that be long enough?:confused:
 
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