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1973 evinrude 18hp(18304a) backfires

InstaGator

Contributing Member
I have a 1973 evinrude 18hp(not the fasttwin) that was thrown in with a boat I bought a few weeks ago. When I pull it it backfires but doesn't even try to start. I've read a few posts from different forums and tried everything I could think of. Ive even sprayed stattimg fluid into thw carb to see if it would try to fire and it just backfires. It is getting spark, I haven't gapped the plugs yet though. The woodruff key is good, the flywheel is torqued to 45lbs. Ive tried swapping the plug wires. I've done a compression test(both cylinders are at 115psi). I've checked the reed valves and they seemed okay but I really don't know what a bad one would look like. Any ideas of what it could be? This is the first outboard I've ever worked on. Everyone that looks at it says it should at least try to start. It's got us all stumped.
 
Is it actually a "backfire"... sounds like a shotgun going off... OR... does it sound more like a spitting back "phttt" noise blowing out the carburetor face?

Spark Plugs should be Champion J6C plugs gaped at .030

Also, check the spark properly. Remove the spark plugs, rig a spark tester whereas you can set a 1/4" gap to have the spark jump across. That spark should jump that gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?

NOTE that using the spark plugs to test the spark is a waste of time. Buy a adjustable gap spark tester at an automotive store or make the following.

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(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Note that there are other ways to set points such as using a ohm meter or timing light... however, the following will result in a setting so close to being exact that one could not tell the difference.


Make sure that your feeler gauge is absolutely clean so as NOT to transfer oil/grease to the points.

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP embossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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It is a pretty loud backfire(a small flame comes out of the exhaust). I did find out this engine has been sitting for about 4 years and the carb is a mess. it looks like they put grease in the carb it is so gummed up. I have never messed with the points so that will probably need to be done as well. Also the needle valve at the front of the carb is new to me. I have tired a few settings with this and none have worked. Is this what you are saying to set all the way in and do 1 1/2 turns out? I will pick up a spark tester and mess with it some more. Thank for the reply.
 
Update on the backfiring issue... I pretty much rebuilt the entire engine(besides the piston rings because they had great compression.. It still wouldnt start. I saw 2 wires that went to the coils and swapped those wires and it fired right up.. I dont know why it wouldnt start when I swapped the actual plug wires but by swapping the wires that go to the coils it fired. I guess I should have tried that in the first place since it was so simple but now I have a mostly rebuilt engine
 
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