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1972 sea ray lower unit.

J

Josh Hopkins

New member
hey everybody, obviously im a new guy here and i have a couple of questions. I just attempted to replace my water pump impeller and was in a huge hurry to get it done. I got the lower unit off with no problem but i did not have the unit in forward like i was told to do.....is this an issue ...my second issue is that due to the fact i was in a hurry i just took everything apart and put the new impeller in and started putting it back together. well i had one left over part, it is a thick rubber grommet, and not the o ring that goes at the top of the shaft, im not sure were this goes. the boats itself is a 1972 searay with a 120 hp in bore motor and has the type R drive. Im mostly a car mechanic so this was a little out of the ordinary for me, so any and all help with be GREATLY appreciated.
 
called a "slinger", goes on top of the top water pump cover. just slide it down the driveshaft to the top of the cover.
pump-2.jpg
 
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Well thats easy enough..lol...i figured thats were it went but i didnt want to just put it there not knowing if that was the for sure spot for it.....thank a bunch guys, you saved my ass on this one...my wife was starting to question my boat mechanic skills. So what about as far as not having it in forward when i droped the lower unit, is that a big deal, or do i just make sure i have it in forward gear when i re install it. Thank again!
 
foward gear is preferred because to line up the driveshaft splines you may have to turn the prop backwards in fwd.just be sure to prelube the impeller so the vanes dont turn over when you turn the prop backwards.
 
Ok i got it back in and bolted up, put my water ears on it. and as soon as i started it the temp gauge maxed out....im talking like 20 seconds, and there was water pumping out the back like its suppose to, so im thinking that the temp gauge is just acting a little weird.
 
Ok the boat has been sitting with the engine off and the battery unplugged, it has set for over an hour or longer (the boat only ran for maybe a minute or two tops) went out and turned the key over (not turning it over) and the temp gauge was still maxed out.....i think its safe to say the temp gauge is bad. I will say that when key is in the off position the needle does go down, not even close to all the way down but it does go down, but as soon as i turn the key over it pegs out.
 
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...i think its safe to say the temp gauge is bad.
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Not necessarily...If the gauge stays at max w/the key off then it's the gauge. Disconnect the sender w/the key on and ground the sender wire. If it goes from 0 to max. hot when grounded the sender is bad.
 
the temp gauge itself has 5 wires going to it and all of one go to the other gauges on the panel, the only one that does not is a green wire that runs into a harness under the steering wheel, another thing that i noticed i started it again and let it run for about 5 minutes and the engine block was not hot, the intake was not hot, as well as the lower unit/upper unit, i mean it was warm to the touch but was not scolding hot. im not sure if thats normal or not. the main water tube( the one that looks like a radiator hose) had water in it ans was just warm not scolding hot. were does the temp gauge go into the motor at. i was unable to find that.
 
Thank ya sir for all your help, i came home last night after the boat setting for about 4 hrs and turned key and it still read hot but i noticed whenever i started the boat this time that the needle in the gauge was jummping all over the place then would go back to hot, then start bouncing all over the place again and the light for the gauge was going off and on....Thanks again for all your help.
 
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