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1972 Evinrude 50 HP only starts after spraying with Carb Clean or Starting Fluid.

P

Pacman

New member
Howdy!

I recently bought a 1972 ArrowGlass 15' Tarpon II with a 1972 Evinrude 50 HP outboard. I checked the fuel lines and replaced the old fuel with new fuel and changed the plugs (just to be sure and start with a fresh set). I made sure the filter was clean (it was) and made sure the fule lines were feeding the carb.

I got it started with Starter fluid and once it starts, it runs fine. But it has to be started by spraying Carb Cleaner or Starting Fluid (I am going to just get a spray bottle with gas/oil mixture in it from now on while I'm trying to figure out the problem) and it runs fine, but won't restart until I repeat the fluid spray into the rubber-covered holes over the carb.

A Mercury repairman told me it sounded like the Primer Solenoid was out and not priming the engine when I turn the ignition switch on. I did some research and it seems it may be that or the Choke Solenoid. I do not know how to test either and that is the extent of my knowledge.

Should I just replace both? Any advice or suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Primer solenoids did not come out till early 1980's on that model.---The choke has 3 positions I believe.----Full on manually.----automatic-------- and full off.---What position is it in??
 
Kindly thank the Mercury man but, Mercury motors may be the same species as a Johnson/Evinrude but they are a totally different breed. Your motor uses a choke, probably electric with manual back-up depending on your model. What is your model number? Look for a toggle switch under the key switch. If so, turn key on(do not crank) flip and hold toggle and listen for choke butterflies on carbs to slam shut (a solid thunk). If no toggle switch, then turn key on (do not crank) then push key in and hold, listen for the thunk. If you do not hear it check position of manual lever (bottom right front of cowl beside where wiring enters motor). Racerone is right, lever pushed in=choke off; flush with housing=automatic(electric choke); lever pulled out=manual choke. Set lever flush with housing, try electric choke again. Take cover off motor so you can better hear the thunk sound. Let us know
 
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If you take the cover off, and try the toggle switch with the key on, you can see the linkage move. The carbs have choke butterflies on this engine (I have one). If the linkages aren't moving then try pulling the choke button out all the way. When you do this, you should see things move beside the carbs. Try starting it with the choke pulled out. But once the engine has been run and it's warm, you shouldn't need the choke to re-start it. And don't go hard on the Merc guy.. they use the same system, a solenoid to pull the linkage into the choke position.
 
It looks like the problem is in the linkage, as they only move maybe a 1/4 inch or so when I use the electric choke, and manual choke (using the push/pull) lever at the front of
the motor doesn't keep it running either. The battery is charged, so I know it is getting electricity. When I manually move the linkage, a very small wire goes slack as it goes in and out of what is either a solenoid or actuator. Now, the motor will not stay running... I know it is getting fuel and the filter is clean.
 
It sounds like the linkage is binding or just gummed up. Try spraying all the exposed linkage with WD 40 or something, and try manually working the linkage back and forth. It may not stay running now because the choke is stuck on partially? Hard to tell when I can't see it. The small wire that's going slack is the control wire that actuates the choke butterflies.
 
I got a new can of B12 Carb and Choke cleaner and I been blasting every point on the linkage, but the main "rod" that moves only moves about a 1/4 inch and that is all. The battery is good and is fully charged and I am trying it with the choke lever (on front of motor housing as described by ronward and racerone) in all positions - no joy.
 
Remove the choke solenoid for inspection.-----Sound like there is an issue with it.---------It should slam the choke plates closed when switch is operated.
 
Pacman said:
I got a new can of B12 Carb and Choke cleaner and I been blasting every point on the linkage, but the main "rod" that moves only moves about a 1/4 inch and that is all. The battery is good and is fully charged and I am trying it with the choke lever (on front of motor housing as described by ronward and racerone) in all positions - no joy.
Click to expand...

What I just found was that small wire that comes out of a small cylinder is attached to a post that is pushed in and out of the cylinder, which SHOULD then pull and release
the choke linkage and butterflys. I can see the post that is attached to the wires is binding up on the support bracket it rides on (has a half-moon groove that it slides back and forth on) and that cylinder appears to be a motor or actuator that is supposed to move that post and wire hard enough to work the linkage... but it isn't working that way. I am wondering if that actuator motor (or whatever it is called) is bad. Still working on it...
 
the actuator is an electromagnet, that pulls in the post connected to the wire that's connected to the choke linkage.
 
bill_w said:
the actuator is an electromagnet, that pulls in the post connected to the wire that's connected to the choke linkage.
Click to expand...

Is that the Starter Solenoid? And shouldn't it be strong enough to pull the linkage hard enough to activate the choke?
 
When it was new the choke solenoid would pull the plunger in and slam the choke plates shut.--------Choke solenoid and starter solenoid are completely different items.
 
racerone said:
When it was new the choke solenoid would pull the plunger in and slam the choke plates shut.--------Choke solenoid and starter solenoid are completely different items.
Click to expand...

Yeah, after posting I realized my mistake - I meant Choke Solenoid... interestingly, the issue I suspected when I first posted on this thread.

Thanks everyone - going to order another and see - I'll advise.
 
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