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1972 Evinrude 125 HP ROTOR AND SENSOR GAP PIC ATTACHED

B

Brian J

Member
I believe this is a phase II rotor and the correct one for this motor. I have 2 CDI instructions for pulse pack 113-8362. One says phase II for 1968-1971. The other just says for Prestolite battery ignitions with pick up require phase II rotor.

Other problem:
See where the sensor is and how it is gapped. It looks like the lobe of the rotor is in the way of the gap. If I move the sensor at all it will just move the gap to the other side. I measured the gap where the lobe is the closest and its close to .028. (a little larger but not bad). It seems to run OK with this gap.



I really don't want to mess with this since it will start and run good for 30 minutes then start to skip and bogg down. I don't think this is my problem but you guys might know better...


The sensor checks out and the distributor and stator look good. I have to put some dielectric in the wires coming out of the distributor. I will close this up and install the new power pack and hope for the best. What do you guys think?

SSCN3692.JPG
 
Post a picture of the exact position of the rotor relative to the sensor where you are measuring / setting the air gap.
 
Thanks racerone for the response. Not trying to be rude (especially when someone is helping you) but I thought that is exactly what I posted. The metal looking ring with 4 lobes (Skinny) is the rotor and to the left of the picture (1/4 moon looking device (cresent looking) ) is the sensor. You probably already knew that but that is what I am trying to find out.

If you look at the sensor (cresent looking ) see how it lines up with the rotor. One lobe in close at the top and the other is farther down. No matter how I adjust it the lobe will be in the way. The sensor is curently gapped toward the top and if I try to gap the middle the lobe will be in the way or the gap will be too large.

Don't know if this would cause the engine to miss at high RPM's.
 
In the picture that you have posted the rotor is not in the right position to adjust the air gap.--------I find that so many people do not want to answer questions or respond in a polite way so they can get top notch help !!---Sorry.--------I have worked on more than one of these motors, probably have a rebuilt powerhead on the shelf too.---Used to run a pair of 1970 -115 HP motors like yours on a 20' Wellcraft.
 
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Sorry if I sounded rude but I don't mean too, that's why I posted this picture. I don't know all that much about outboards but I can turn a wrench. Sorry that I am going to have to ask some dumb questions. The rotor won't turn, (at least with some force which I am not sure which way and how much force). Should I move the rotor or take it off and reposition it? My book shows removing it with 2 screwdrivers prying up on 2 sides. Is that what I must do? Is there anything under the rotor that might move?

I have never done this before so I don't want to screw it up. Like I said earlier the motor runs good for 30 minutes then all it will do is 1/3 throttle. I am nervous about screwing with the gap, but I will if you think this could be causing the problem I will mess with it.

How do I position the rotor correctly so I can check the gap?

Thanks
 
Turn the crankshaft !!!!!!!!-----I do not think you realize what level of expertise is trying to help you here.---------------I look at posts on another board and the help offered by some posters is somewhat comical to me.
 
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