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1972 9.5 hp kill switch broke

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KimMason

New member
Hi I'm new here. I got a 9.5 ho Evinrude and our on the water I stopped and pushed the stop switch, it broke, like fell apart broke. I looked and the wires were rotted and touching, insulation cracked etc. I thought I could just disconnect the wires and the motor would start, it did not. I was told by someone, a car mechanic that the motor will not run without the switch. Anyway I thought you guys could help.
thank you.
 
When one punches the button on those stop switches, that causes those two wire to be touching each other which in effect is connecting the two sets of points.... shorting out the ignition and stopping the engine which is the purpose of the switch.

Now, you connecting those two wires together..... you in effect have pushed the button in and are holding it in. It is impossible for the magneto to function. Separate those wires in order to have spark at the spark plug area.

Avoid automotive mechanics.... cars do not float very good! :)
 
What Joe said, X2. The two wires must not touch each other, or any other metal part.

I like the auto mechanic comment. God Bless them, they have to be very smart to fix today's cars, but boats are not cars.
 
The wires on my 71 were in the same condition from the switch back to the plastic clips mid-way back. The wires from the clips on into the magneto were in great shape so I simply rewired the bad section. The switch works fine. The OEM kill switch replacement is rather 'pricey' at $81 bucks !
 
Thanks guys, I was a lift truck mech.(all electric trucks) before retirement and did not understand how a normally open switch had to be there to start the motor so you are right. But I have the wires disconnected and not touching and the motor still will not start. Up until the switch breaking it started on 2 maybe 3 pulls, could the broken switch have caused another problem. The ohm meter reads to the frame on both wires but I think it is reading though the coils when I disconnect the coils the wires do not read to the frame. Should the coils read though to the frame?
 
Have you pulled the flywheel? What color are the coils? The first thing is allways do a compression test and a spark gap test with a open air spark gap tester. All the spark in the world will not fire a cylinder with low compression. You can make a spark gap tester it must jump a gap of at least 1/4 inch brite blue snap. Get back with compression numbers before we can go any further.
 
You ask.... "Should the coils read though to the frame?"

It depends on whether the coil ground wire is attached or not. See below.

(Regular Magneto Coils - Continuity Test)
(J. Reeves)

Checking the continuity of the ignition coils....... Have the ohm meter set to High Ohms.


Remove the primary wire from points. Remove the coil ground wire. You do not want either of these wires touching anything.
Connect the black lead of a ohm meter to the spark plug boot terminal, then with the red ohm meter lead, touch the ground wire of the coil.


Then touch (still with the red lead) the primary wire. You should get a reading on both touches (contacts). If not, check the spring terminal inside the rubber boots of the spark plug wire.


If there is no continuity between the secondary circuit (spark plug) wire and the primary or ground, remove the coil from the armature plate, then check the continuity directly between the prong within the coil (prong that the plug wire connects to) and the primary and ground. Poor or no continuity of a coil (or plug wire) is one reason for weak spark, s/plug fouling, or no spark.
 
Thanks Joe I will try that.
Kimcrwbr1 I did have the flywheel off the coils are sliver The compression is good gap is ggod, the motor was running great right up until the switch broke. I was on the water glad I had enough battery to get back on the electric trolling motor.
 
Compression is good and gap is good means absolutely nothing to us. I doubt the switch has anything to do with your running issue. The first thing I do if I feel compression pulling on the rope is pour a couple tablespoons of fuel mix into the spark plug holes and put the plugs in and give it a yank once you put the plugs in. Make sure it is in a barrel of water in case it fires up. If it dont fire do a compression test it must be at least 70psi and even on both cylinders. Give us actual numbers you can spend alot of time working on other stuff and it still wont run on low compression. I just use a length of vacuum tubing and dunk it in the fuel tank and plug the end with your finger, then stick it in a spark plug hole and release your finger. If it dont fire it is either compression or spark. A guy I know completely rebuilt a motor and it still wouldnt start. I pulled the spark plugs and they were wet but would not light with a lighter. His gas tank had about a quart of water in it.
 
Those Kill Switches can be very costly. My solution on one motor was to use a waterproof SS "Momentary" Toggle switch that I simply installed on the lower cowling. Dirt cheap and probably a better quality than the OEM kill switch.


CMOS
 
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