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1971 Mercruiser 140 Ignition Issues

dtladd1993

New member
I'll try and make a long story short. I've been battling a loss of spark issue for a couple of months. Initially I thought the issue was fuel related but it's not. Here's what I've done
1. Rebuilt Carburetor
2.Set Dwell and timing
3. Tested on an auxiliary fuel tank
4. Replaced Coil,Cap, rotor, condenser, sanded points
5.Checked fuel pressure with gauge
6.Installed fuel water separator checked condition of fuel.

So after the boat was running for a while it would miss and cut out and then die, it was next to impossible to restart. I tested the ignition circuit and found the condenser wire was pinched between the cap and base plate of the distributor. I replaced it and it runs great for an entire trip. About 3 hours of continuous running half at 1500 the other half at 3500. I take it out about 2 days later and runs wonderfully again, but on the way back to the ramp the ignition starts to cut out about 3500. I installed a primer bulb for testing purposes, so I checked that and no change. I'm concerned about the resistor wire and whether or not that's contributing to my issue? My boat has the old school thermal choke so I believe my resister wire runs directly to pin 5 on the harness. I checked voltage at the resistor wire where it connects to the coil and it's 11.5 volts about 1 volt less than at the battery. I thought that I would see less voltage here? Is it possible I'm getting too much power at the coil and burning up my points and condenser. I'm chasing my tail here and frustrated. I'm good with mechanical but electrical isn't my forte. Any help is greatly appreciated. Perhaps I'm going about this all wrong.

Dan
 
When you checked voltage at the + post on the coil was the engine running or not?

The norm is about 3 vdc less with the engine running...

Finally, have you checked the point since the last use, to see if they have degrade?

You may as long want to check the condition of the key switch if it's original..
 
Also check after engine has run and is fully warmed up, The distributor shaft side to side movement. Because distributor is on an angle the housing bushings wear causing excess slop and the points loose there dwell/gap......

The resistor wire is buried in the engine harness and is about 3 ft long and bent over on itself. If you decide to dig it out and measure its resistance it is around 2 OHM's.

So if it is bad, a standard blast resistor can be used in its place and you will need to re- wire from a Ignition on source (wired to one side of Ballast resistor) bypassing the resistor wire. Other side of ballast resistor will connect to Coil +
 
If you are loosing spark, why fool with fuel components?
Why would you replace everything under the sun except choose to sand the points?
Ballast wires rarely fail & I would think it would fail open.
Verify your shift cables are OK & not causing the shift interruptor switch to actuate (or move part way up the fork) while in gear.
 
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