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1970s 18 hp Fastwin

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nicknack2

Regular Contributor
Guys I just got a 1970s 18 hp Fastwin pick it up for $100 bucks, nice and clean, good even compression, started it yesterday on a 50 gal tank, shifts good no problem with that, the only issues that I see is that it looks like it is running rich, I put a 50:1 mix of Saber outboard synthetic Amsoil, i think the rich condition is due to the fact that the knob in the front of the motor spins free besides the fact that I don’t know the correct setting for the knob is, it came off the linkage on the back side of it, and then the other end where it has a rod and a bushing/brass nut looking thing is also loose at the carburetor end (where it screws in to the carb)... can anyone help me with this, first I’m trying to figure out the correct setting of the brass bushing/rod that goes in to carburetor and what it is and what is called and then I would like to know the correct setting for the knob once I put together the link at both ends ( behind the knob and at the carb)...and any advise on things to watch for on this little motor, it is old but seems in good shape, also does it suppose to have a expel water like other motor when the water is pumped by the water pump like a pee hole???
 
If that model has a brass locking nut surrounding the s/s needle valve, there should be four (4) fiber packing washers between the back portion of the brass locking nut and the threaded portion of the carburetor. Packing washers are part number 307583.

With the packing washers in place, tighten the brass locking nut to a point whereas you can turn/adjust the needle valve BUT it will not turn on its own due to vibration etc. Then...........

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
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