Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1970 60hp Johnson questions

R

roz58

New member
"Hi,

I have a 1970 60hp Joh

"Hi,

I have a 1970 60hp Johnson, Model 60ESL-70D, and have a couple curious questions:

1. Is the clipper assembly a voltage regulator? It's not in my wiring diagrams and I ran across some other postings stating that these have been removed on some motors.
The reason why I'm asking is because I have replaced the blocking diode in the remote control twice due to what I think might be the intermittent over-voltage (around 16vdc) I'm trying to troubleshoot. Any thoughts on this?

2. The previous owner had replaced some electrical components trying to correct a timing issue which brings me to the next question:

Can the motor be run at the required rpm's for checking timing with just the mickey mouse ears installed, or does it have to be in a test tank?

The motor actually runs quite well, except at about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle (it's hard to tell exactly). At this speed it tends to stumble and a slight bump in throttle smooths it right out. Timing?


Steve"
 
"The clipper circuit is a durg

"The clipper circuit is a durge suppressor designed originally to protect various circuits BUT was found to be more trouble than what it was worth. A bulletin was issued to remove and discard it.

DO NOT ever attempt to run that engine at full throttle on a flushette. That could and most likely would set up a runaway engine condition where it would simply race away uncontrolably. By the time you figured out how to drop the rpms, connecting rods would be flying out the sides of the block!

You can check safely the timing as follows:

(Timing At Cranking Speed 4°)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: If your engine has the "Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperture.

The full spark advance can be adjusted without have the engine running at near full throttle as follows.

To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).

Rig a spark tester and have the gap set to 7/16". Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4° less than what the engine calls for.

I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28°, set the timing at 24°. The reasoning for the 4° difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition componets, the engine gains the extra 4°.

If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4° which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.

No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.

Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

The high speed jets located in the bottom center of the carburetors could be slightly fouled. Clean them manually with a piece of wire.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway."
 
"Joe - thank you very much for

"Joe - thank you very much for the tips on timing and carb adjustments, I'll be sure to try that.

Do you know where I can get a copy of that bulletin regarding the removal of the clipper? I still plan on removing it just to eliminate any future problems, but I'm just interested in the details.

How does the voltage get regulated? Every once in a while I'll notice about 16vdc on the volt meter and I don't recall if it changes with RPM.

Thanks,

Steve"
 
"that is an UN-regulated charg

"that is an UN-regulated charging system that varies w/eng speed.U should never see more than 14V any where.In your situation,I would charge,then load test your batt...i think,u may find it has a problem."
 
Back
Top