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1968 Evinrude 100 Electric shift issues

H

halbrodmann

Contributing Member
I'm considering purchasing a '68 Evinrude 100 with electric shift. The neutral button doesn't work. Forward and Reverse work fine, but it won't shift into neutral. I would imagine parts for this motor are getting a bit hard to find. Any ideas on what might be the problem? Again, I don't have the motor, but am considering getting it for next to nothing. It runs great and cranks right up. I'll be going to look at it one day this week and would like to know what to look for to see if it's an easy repair.
 
100hp should be the old 14" Selectric shift. In other words solid prop hub; exhaust exits above the prop.

These by design fail into neutral if electric is lost. So I have to assume the push button switch is bad. Simply disconnect the 2 wires where the knife splices are & you should get neutral. That will verify a switch/wire issue. These switches were used only on the solid hub outboards (some 1968 & earlier years). Also for electric shift I/Os thru 1977. They are expensive!

1968 50 thru 85hp and all 1969 thru 72 hydro-electric shifts (50hp & up) used different control boxes. Actually I believe the mechanical portion is the same but switch & harness is different. Racerone will know.
 
It does sound like the wrong switch / control box.-----And in my opinion parts ( new / used ) are easy to find.-----Depends on your location.-----These are a great smooth running motor.-----Your location?
 
Note-----If it was a HYDRO-ELECTRIC switch there would be no 12 volts applied to anything in forward.-----An ELECTRAMATIC lower unit needs constant 12 volts to energize the forward electromagnet.-------And if this motor is running on a hose the prop will spin in neutral.------Leads many folks to believe there is something wrong.-----So was this diagnosis of " no neutral " with boat in the water ??-----For me this would be an easy repair if in fact there is something wrong.-----If this test was running DRY on a trailer the motor will need a new impeller.------If you buy this motor consider installing / converting to an overheat warning horn instead of a warning light.
 
It's easy to wire the overheat horn in parallel with the light so you have both. Both my OMC I/Os have the light on the panel & I've added the horns for back-up.
 
Here's a picture of the control box. I've asked the seller for more information. He's a great guy and I'll probably just help him get it working correctly. Somebody needs to keep this old motor running, right?
1748900163370.png
 
The 2 different control boxes look the same.-------If you are looking at the scenery you might not see the light ( bright sun ) on the helm.----You will certainly hear the horn.
 
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