Good Evening,
First off, I apologize for the time lapse between my posts. I am in the Navy Reserves and have been sent to the Gulf twice now in the past 5 months. I am being sent back again in the very near future for another round. So I am trying to finish this outboard before I leave and maybe take it out for a test.
This was the original post and I am having the exact same problem:
To try to isolate the problem, I have disconnected the stator, removed the stator, replaced the two wires from the distributor (last two were corroded, I thought for sure that was the problem), changed rotor and cap, changed both ends of the spark plug wires (connectors and boots), new plugs, checked plug wires for leaks, completely disconnected the rectifier, checked all connections, cleaned all connections, re-timed the distributor, isolated the battery to only outboard (so ran the engine positive and negative straight to the battery), new internal harness, new external harness. I have also tested the start solenoid, ignition coils and starter, no shorts.
It runs a little rough at idle, but I would like to find the electrical issue before I start rebuilding the fuel system just in case the electrical problem is related to the rough idle. It starts easily and does idle (just rough) and will start to rev up (still on the muffs so do not want to rev it up to high). I did take it out once 4 months ago and could not get it to go over 2200rpm. I thought the corroded distributor wires had to do with that (still have not been back out to test it). I'm not totally counting out that it's not the switch box or ignition coil but my tests while the engine is not running show no significant continuity between wires and frame. That doesn't mean that when high voltage is running through it that it's not going somewhere. I would think that if it was having a major voltage leak that it wouldn't even run, or I would get shocked when touching the motor.
I have put a lot into it and hate to junk it and find another outboard, but I am starting to feel that might be the path I will be taking when I get back from my vacation with Uncle Sam.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Chonka
First off, I apologize for the time lapse between my posts. I am in the Navy Reserves and have been sent to the Gulf twice now in the past 5 months. I am being sent back again in the very near future for another round. So I am trying to finish this outboard before I leave and maybe take it out for a test.
This was the original post and I am having the exact same problem:
Good morning all,
I have a 1967 Mercury 950 SS with serial number: 2100114 and it is mounted on a 1965 Lone-star aluminum hull. I am getting some erratic voltage readings from my charging system at the battery and at the engine. I am using digital multi-meters for the testing.
First off at the battery my meter reads 12.5 vdc before start up. After start up the meter readings jumps around and then the meter shuts down (It just turns off. I'm assuming this is a safety feature on the meter). I switched to a Klein Tools meter(MM2000). I hook the meter to the battery in volts DC mode, start the engine and the meter readings start to jump around and then switches to AC mode while still jumping around (not going above 4 volts AC)(I'm also assuming that it has an automatic input feature (AC to DC)). I also get erratic readings while the engine is running and I touch only one lead of my meter (in volts DC) to the chassis of the engine. The other lead of the meter is dangling in the air.
At this point I disconnected the stator from the rectifier and restart the engine. I now get 5 volts from each of the yellow leads of the stator to chassis ground and 19 volts AC across the two yellow leads. I still get the erratic reading when I touch one lead of the meter to the chassis.
This has lead me to believe that I have AC voltage leaking into the ground of the chassis or a loose connection. I removed the fly wheel and checked continuity from the chassis ground to each of the output wires to find none, so its not grounding to the chassis. I did find where the yellow leads connect to the first two coils on the stator to be a bit corroded and the timing belt to be well dry rotted ( i do not feel the belt had anything to do with my problem, but needs to be replaced).
This outboard seems to have the older rectifier(32177A 2) with shorting clipper. I am not sure if this is the right one, I thought it should have the 78614A rectifier.
I am looking to replace the stator, if I can find one, along with the rectifier and belt. At the very least I will replace the rectifier and belt and reconnect/clean the corrosion from the two yellow leads and re-insulate the wires.
Any help is appreciated with this issue. Also, I know the stators are obsolete, but does anyone know were to get one, or a compatible replacement?
Thank you,
Chonka
It just doesn't seem normal that when I touch only one lead of the multimeter to the ground, engine, or bare hull (aluminum boat) my meter goes haywire and shuts down. It only happens when the engine is running. When the key is simply in "on" position, no problem. It does the same thing if I try to get a reading of the battery while running. I am not using a DVA, but shouldn't need one at the battery.I have a 1967 Mercury 950 SS with serial number: 2100114 and it is mounted on a 1965 Lone-star aluminum hull. I am getting some erratic voltage readings from my charging system at the battery and at the engine. I am using digital multi-meters for the testing.
First off at the battery my meter reads 12.5 vdc before start up. After start up the meter readings jumps around and then the meter shuts down (It just turns off. I'm assuming this is a safety feature on the meter). I switched to a Klein Tools meter(MM2000). I hook the meter to the battery in volts DC mode, start the engine and the meter readings start to jump around and then switches to AC mode while still jumping around (not going above 4 volts AC)(I'm also assuming that it has an automatic input feature (AC to DC)). I also get erratic readings while the engine is running and I touch only one lead of my meter (in volts DC) to the chassis of the engine. The other lead of the meter is dangling in the air.
At this point I disconnected the stator from the rectifier and restart the engine. I now get 5 volts from each of the yellow leads of the stator to chassis ground and 19 volts AC across the two yellow leads. I still get the erratic reading when I touch one lead of the meter to the chassis.
This has lead me to believe that I have AC voltage leaking into the ground of the chassis or a loose connection. I removed the fly wheel and checked continuity from the chassis ground to each of the output wires to find none, so its not grounding to the chassis. I did find where the yellow leads connect to the first two coils on the stator to be a bit corroded and the timing belt to be well dry rotted ( i do not feel the belt had anything to do with my problem, but needs to be replaced).
This outboard seems to have the older rectifier(32177A 2) with shorting clipper. I am not sure if this is the right one, I thought it should have the 78614A rectifier.
I am looking to replace the stator, if I can find one, along with the rectifier and belt. At the very least I will replace the rectifier and belt and reconnect/clean the corrosion from the two yellow leads and re-insulate the wires.
Any help is appreciated with this issue. Also, I know the stators are obsolete, but does anyone know were to get one, or a compatible replacement?
Thank you,
Chonka
To try to isolate the problem, I have disconnected the stator, removed the stator, replaced the two wires from the distributor (last two were corroded, I thought for sure that was the problem), changed rotor and cap, changed both ends of the spark plug wires (connectors and boots), new plugs, checked plug wires for leaks, completely disconnected the rectifier, checked all connections, cleaned all connections, re-timed the distributor, isolated the battery to only outboard (so ran the engine positive and negative straight to the battery), new internal harness, new external harness. I have also tested the start solenoid, ignition coils and starter, no shorts.
It runs a little rough at idle, but I would like to find the electrical issue before I start rebuilding the fuel system just in case the electrical problem is related to the rough idle. It starts easily and does idle (just rough) and will start to rev up (still on the muffs so do not want to rev it up to high). I did take it out once 4 months ago and could not get it to go over 2200rpm. I thought the corroded distributor wires had to do with that (still have not been back out to test it). I'm not totally counting out that it's not the switch box or ignition coil but my tests while the engine is not running show no significant continuity between wires and frame. That doesn't mean that when high voltage is running through it that it's not going somewhere. I would think that if it was having a major voltage leak that it wouldn't even run, or I would get shocked when touching the motor.
I have put a lot into it and hate to junk it and find another outboard, but I am starting to feel that might be the path I will be taking when I get back from my vacation with Uncle Sam.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Chonka
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