Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1966 6 hp running very rich

J

Jbest

New member
Hi all,

I'm new in this forum and hope I can get some insight. I have 1966 6 hp and problem with my outboard. I don't know the history of this motor but the compresion of each cylinder is 90 psi, changed points gaped at .020, coils, condensors,plugs and wires,carb kit and float,fuel pump and gasket,intake gaskets and reed valves, base gasket and crank to driveshaft seal. Oh and oil return line.

The problem is that the slow needle point has to be 1/2 to 3/4 turns in for it to idle and not completly foul my plugs j6c. Also in my garbage can you can see the unburt gas mixed in with the water.

If any one has an idea please I'm in over my head. Bad carb, bleeder valve or what?


Thanks in advance

Jbest
 
We need facts --------Will spark jump a gap of 1/4" or better on both ???-----------Is the thermostat in place and not stuck open ???
 
hey thanks for the reply racerone,

Already replaced thermostat, the other one was stuck open and head wasn't getting hot, but now it gets warm. Not shure about spark jumping at leat 1/4. How do you measure that? I thought by changing coils,wires,points and condensors and plugs that the spark would be good?

Also what other facts might you need for I'm not a mechanic, just get by as a hobby.

Thanks
 
Double Check Your Work.
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)
Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.
Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.
Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)
With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)
Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

Mixture is 50/1... 1 pint of good quality 50/1 oil to 6 gallons of gasoline. A octane rating of 87 will be fine.

Spark plugs should be Champion J6C plugs gapped at .030 .

In a barrel, there will be some oil residue as it is impossible for that engine to burn all of the oil.
 
Thanks for your replies.

I will investigate my work and look into my float, sounds like it could be the culprit. My biggest beef is that it ran the same before I changed all these parts, so that's why I'm confused. And as for the s/s needle as I stand it has to be 1/4 to 1/2 turn out from seat for it to idle. So the a float problem might be it. If it's not well I'm up for any more suggestions.

I'll look into it and let you guys know.

Thanks again
 
One other tip on a critical adjustment............
(Magneto & Driver Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)
To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creats friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1

 
Back
Top