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1965 40HP Evinrude starter flywheel issues

J

jim18611865

Regular Contributor
Just bought this a week ago for my 58' FeatherCraft.
Looks pretty clean, except I am finding some idiot worked on it.
Seller said it had a spark issue. I tested compression but not spark with the electric starter.
90 psi on my gauge 105 psi on the sellers.
So I took it.

Now checking the inoperable pull starter.
Some wrong bolts, even one metric! Aargh!
It is missing the ratchet (202111 just found on ebay for $12) and one of the flywheel puller holes has a broken bolt in it.
I assume the ratchet was bolted into these holes?
Any issue drilling and threading a new hole in the flywheel?
Or should I try to pull the flywheel with only two bolts?

Thanks

Jim
 
Uh oh! Flywheel bolt isn't there either, and I see why.
Is this even fixable or a parts engine?
 

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Some cretin has destroyed that motor. Instead of removing the broken puller bolt, he resorted to beating on the crankshaft with a big hammer and destroyed the threads on the crankshaft. One of the most expensive parts on the motor, a major job to replace.
 
If possible I'd take it back to the seller and get my money back. You're looking a a lot of money to tear the engine down and replace the crankshaft. I had one repaired once but it was not dinged up so bad the machinist couldn't repair it. I was going to overhaul the motor anyway.

When the idiot beat on the crankshaft he may of damaged something internally in the motor as well.
Bill
 
Well, the seller was actually the buyer of a boat/engine combo.
The original seller gave him my email as I was interested in the engine only.
The guy I bought it off, I am fairly sure didn't know. It was only $250, and the controls I can likely get $100 for should I not keep them.
There is a complete power head on ebay for $80, but I don't think I want to go that direction either.
When messing with engines of this age, I need to expect to have parts engines around anyway.

I just hate to see what could have been a decent runner, ruined by ignorance.

Thanks
Jim
 
There are a lot of those motors around so replacing it with a good power head shouldn't be too hard. You could also replace the crankshaft with a used one but with new gaskets, seals, etc. it could get pricey.

Bill
 
With the monitor I'm using and my eyesight I can't really see the extent of the tread damage' but there 'may' be enough undamaged treads to hold the flywheel if you chamfer the damaged top treads and use a triangular file to dress the tread at that point. I've had some success doing this.
 
Right, there seem to be enough threads there that you can carefully cut a sliver off the top of the crank, by either grinding or sawing, then chase the threads with a die. I repaired a Mercury the same way, that had been overtightened, then beat up by some goon trying to get at the stator.
 
You need to remove the crankshaft to restore it properly anyway... and this will enable you to see what the rest of the crankshaft looks like. Why waste time on a crankshaft with a possible worn connecting rod throw.

Then, if all else looks good...let a machine shop do that job properly.
 
The crank is probably okay down below as bearings/flanges are pretty stout. Make sure that all filings are cleaned out, as any tiny bit may get on the breaker points. I run into coils constantly set too close to the flywheel on these too. The face of the coil should be set at the BACK of the chamfer on the stator plate mounting bosses. This is to provide for slight wear on the stator plate hub. Make sure that the points cam lube felt is in place with a drop of 30w motor oil on it. Don't over torque flywheel and if there is no room for a washer under the flywheel nut when you are done, that is not the end of the world. Dab a little silicone down first to cover the keyway slot. Been doing this for 45 years. Good luck, Tim
 
Joe has good advice too, but money is always a factor. Kinda like doing what you can safely get away with to make a good reliable motor. It really depends on how hard that goon rapped it. Don't forget to look under the edges of the flywheel to see any damage they did by prying. Also, pull both plugs and add some oil, spin it by hand (once you have set the coils so they aren't rubbing). Feel for any binding or uneven rotation and also end play in the crankshaft. If things seem cool/smooth.......I'd take my chances........pretty good odds its going to be a motor. I know somebody with lots of complete powerheads around, if things don't feel right. Minnesota has 10,000 lakes and outboards are used only 6 months a year.
 
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