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1962 Seaking won’t idle Need Help!

C

Cckort

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Hello just purchased this Jon boat with a 1962 Sea King five motor on it. It starts up fine with some throttle and will run if I stay on the throttle but as I let off and try to idle it will stall out immediately unless I give it more gas. I have already taken off the carburetor taken it apart and cleaned it. The gasket is a little bit dry rotted, ordering a new one now and float. It has two knobs on the front that control the high speed and low speed needle valves. I have messed with those for a while and cannot get it to idle successfully. Using clean gas with a 25:1 I’m not able to attach the video of it will attach a link to video shortly. Any help is very much appreciated.
 

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The bottom knob should be set 3/4 turn out from lightly seated, the top needle should be 1 1/2 out from lightly seated. Chances are the packing washers are dry and may be leaking air unless you replaced them. Carburetor cleaning involves complete disassembly and a soak in Chem Dip carb cleaner, followed with OMC or Sierra carb kits. Make sure you have good hot spark on both cylinders. Change the impeller and replace the gear oil.
 
Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more?-----Have ignition coils been tested / replaced?--Check the tip of the low speed needle.----Often twisted off.-----I doubt that leaking packing is ever the cause of idle problems.
 
racerone said:
Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more?-----Have ignition coils been tested / replaced?--Check the tip of the low speed needle.----Often twisted off.-----I doubt that leaking packing is ever the cause of idle problems.
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Seen it many times, I've seen packing so dry rotted and degraded that it takes an hour to dig it out of it's seat with a dentil pick. It is standard operating practice for me to replace packing washers on every carb job, if so equipped. You leave the packing washers alone on a carb job?
 
fitz73222 said:
Seen it many times, I've seen packing so dry rotted and degraded that it takes an hour to dig it out of it's seat with a dentil pick. It is standard operating practice for me to replace packing washers on every carb job, if so equipped. You leave the packing washers alone on a carb job?
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I’ve gone through that dental pick thing a number of times. Those old black sealing rings get rock hard. I don’t bother trying to pick them out anymore. Did another, on a ‘75 last night.
Run a tap down the hole, it’s 18TPI. Do it gently, only 1/2-1 or even 3/4 turn after it hits the old hard stuff. Back it out, shake off the debris, do it again. In 2 or 3 tries the entire old ring will be stuck on the tap, or fall out.
Then it’s very easy to use a pik to remove the few tiny bits that will still be in the threads.
 
You know you met the right crowd when the discussion goes to the best way to pick old packing washers out of a needle seat on a 60 year old carburetor. That's some scary sh.... running a tap down into that recess to extract the remaining packing out. My OCD wants to me to peck it out like a chicken on a Cheeto after an overnight soak in pure Simple Green to have her seeing things my way...
 
I avoided doing that for quite awhile, got ticked off one time when the old packing seemed to be made of stone, bent my good piks.
taps are slightly tapered at the business end. If you look into the recess, with magnification, it also tapers slightly before the threaded portion starts. The tap can go very slightly past where the packing stops without contacting the fine threads that secure the idle needle. It will bite into the packing, making removal about a 1 minute job, just go gentle, you’ll feel it, it’s a different feel than a tap touching metal.
Also, the packing tends to come out in several large pieces. You don’t have to worry about a tiny little piece falling down into that little orifice at the end of the tunnel.
 
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