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1960 Evinrude 3 Revival

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oldbmwmc

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"I have a 3 HP model number 30

"I have a 3 HP model number 3034 that has not been run in a number of years. I ma trying to revive this motor, but could use some help. I have made a 24 to 1 fuel mix, rinsed out the tank with fresh fuel and will check for spark this evening when it gets dark. I hope to purchase new plugs tomorrow. There are two adjusters on the front of the engine, I guess low speed and high speed carb controls. Any thoughts on how to adjust these? How many turns should I open them? Any advice would be appreciated. thanks"
 
"Probably ought to disassemble

"Probably ought to disassemble the carb and make sure it is clean, along with all passages. (Tip: Just purchase an aerosol can of "starting fluid". Blows out passages well, simple, and cheap.)
The top carb adjustment is for Idle. It is very hard to start if it is too lean so I would back it out - 1 1/2 turns. The lower one is high speed. About the same starting point. Adjust low speed idle first then the High speed (bottom one) last."
 
"(Carburetor Adjustments -

"(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
No Luck so far. New plugs hav

No Luck so far. New plugs have been installed. What should the gap be? (Now I think of that). The points look good. The carb has been cleaned. There is spark. It does not even fart on starting fluid.... This is depressing.
 
"Gap plugs at .030.. Starting

"Gap plugs at .030.. Starting fluid, I have found, doesn't really help the starting so don't be discouraged about that. Can you discribe the fuel system? Does the motor have it's own incorporated tank or does it use external?"
 
The fuel tank is on the top of

The fuel tank is on the top of the motor. I have cleaned the tank and the fuel line. There was sediment in the bowl. I have cleaned the vent hole in the gas cap too.
 
"The starting fluid may have r

"The starting fluid may have rinsed out the oil needed to seal the rings....squirt a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder, re-insert the plugs and pull it over several times...try it again but if you have to prime it, use the 24 to 1 mixture. Most of these motors that have sat for a while have cracked ignition coils...there is an inspection port which can be accessed by removing the recoil and the flywheel cover plate...this will give you a visual on the condition of the coils...it takes about 5 minutes. You should also do a compression test.
284009.jpg
"
 
"My routine -
1st - I check

"My routine -
1st - I check the Spark at all plugs- Need to be "hot"
2nd - Need to have good compression-all Cylinders.
3rd - Have positive fuel supply That means disassemble carb, Clean and Check all passageways, fuel lines. You would not believe how many overlook the Aux tank. If that air line leaks - the motor will starve for fuel.

On a motor that I do not know anything about its maintenance history, It is a given:
I clean, disassemble, and make sure Carb is good. that means checking the Float level too.

I pull Flywheel and check coil/points and everything in there. I have even found cracked flywheels from improper removal. An ohmmeter will tell you the condition of the coils.

I check the butterfly timing/advance plate to make sure the butterfly in the carb opens just as the the makes line up with the butterfly roller.

Usually - If you cover all steps and they check out - that motor should run.

Water pump and internal seal kit - that is another topic and if you want the motor to have a happy life - do that too."
 
It appears that I only have sp

It appears that I only have spark in the bottom cylinder. I will pull the flywheel tonight and inspect the points / coil assembly. Pulling the flywheel looks pretty straight forward. Anything I need to be concerned about here?
 
Hopefully you do not use the j

Hopefully you do not use the jaw puller that pulls from the outer diameter of the flywheel. very Easy to damage flywheel if used. Also Torque Flywheel to 45 Ft.lbs during reassembly.
 
I will use a steering wheel pu

I will use a steering wheel puller unless you have another suggestion. I will also try a different spark plug in what appears to be the dead cylinder first.
 
"The recoil is removed by remo

"The recoil is removed by removing the 4 very long screws which go through the recoil and the gas tank. You will then see the flywheel and the plate which covers the inspection port. Remove the 3 small bolts from the flywheel and you will be able to remove the cover and view the coils without removing the flywheel. If you need to remove the flywheel. you will need a puller which has slots for 3 bolts(not sure if steering wheel pullers have 2 or three...I use a harmonic balancer pulley) You will also need some 3 or 4 inch 1/4-20 bolts and washers to use with the puller. When you loosen the flywheel bolt, use some wd 40 and let it soak in overnight before using the puller."
 
"As noted above, no spark if i

"As noted above, no spark if it doesn't fart on starting fluid.
In addition, are you getting gas to the carb? Break the gas line at the carb and check if you get gas when you open the valve at tank. Above the shutoff valve is a filter screen (prior motors had) this can be clogged."
 
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