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1958 Johnson j60TLCOD 60hp overheating

T

tonypayette

New member
I am new to MarineEngine forms but i can not figure out why my motor is overheating . I just bought the boat a mouth ago and took it out three times and the last time i was out the alarm started going off thought is might be to oil alarm at first so i unplugged it and still had the alarm witch lead me to the temp sensor i unplugged it and the alarm went off. So i ordered a new water pump and thermostat with the water jacket gaskets i just installed everything let the motor warm up and then the alarm goes of... while i had everything apart i blew out all the passages with air and water. the only thing that stuck out was the pressure relief valve seamed to be very sticky like it went in and out snug but i put it back in the way i took it out witch to me seemed backwards i blew air through the unit with it in the way i took it out and it did not move not even a little but if i flipped it around it worked great.. so long story short do you think that could be my problem??
I have a very good stream of water coming out of the tell tail but this model has the tell tail port coming out right where the water enters the block witch tells me nothing i have no idea if it is going all the way through the motor.
my other thought was to try it again flipping the pressure valve over the way i think it should go if that dose not work what would happen if i tried it without the thermostat in??
the block feels pretty hot to the touch i can not hold my hand on it for very long but i have not worked on an outboard in a long time so not sure what is too hot. I could really use some help thank you.
 
i had over heating on 87' 48spl basically the same motor, yep started just like you did, ended up removing head and found at the bottom of head gasket were water goes to thermostat the gasket messed up. with head off you'll be able to clean the water jacket around the the cylinders also.
looking at parts break downs on this site it appears this was the first year for VRO's, I,d mix 50/1 until you sure its working, mark the oil tank and see if it goes down after running a while. if its not working a regular fuel pump is listed in parts list, my self id nix the VRO
 
That poppet valve goes in the head... grommet first... plastic valve second, bevel (if it exists) facing grommet... spring third.

Does water shoot out the water tell tale fitting at the starboard rear portion of the cowl pan?

If using a flushette... have the water turned on full force.

If using a test tank, trash can, whatever... be sure to have the water 2" or 3" over the water pump housing. The pump IS NOT self priming and must be submerged!

The warning horn on that model has more than one warning sound... as follows. Be specific is which type warning you receive.
********************
(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: I retired around 1991/92. Possibly some of the later V4 engines and others may also incorporate a fuel vacuum switch that would enable a fuel restriction warning to sound as mentioned below, an unknown factor to myself.

1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.

2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)

3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).

NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.

********************
 
The VRO pump is working good and all the warnings are working. I have the repair manual and it stares overheating at high rpms could indicate a head gasket problem. Should i take it off anyway? also when water is coming out of the tell tail i can easily but my finger over the hole and stop the water from coming out? It is a strong stream. with the cold water that i am putting into the motor i dont see how the thermostat would ever open to let the water through to the cylinders? There seems to be water coming out of the midsection above the lower unit also.
 
So the alarm you're receiving is the constant, steady horn beeeeeeeeeeeeeep? You don't say.

If a head gasket was bad, flawed in any way, it would affect the compression. What is the compression psi reading of the individual cylinders?
 
yep compression test is required, best to know numbers before removing head, also important of troubleshooting, yes you can stop water at the tail tell only 2 or 3 psi at idle, full speed about 15 to 17, also what do spark plugs look like? lots of carbon or very clean? answer joereeves questions , hes one of the best on this forum, me just an back yard fixer.
 
joereeves said:
So the alarm you're receiving is the constant, steady horn beeeeeeeeeeeeeep? You don't say.

If a head gasket was bad, flawed in any way, it would affect the compression. What is the compression psi reading of the individual cylinders?
Click to expand...

both cylinders where at 130, i found bad new i took the head off and in fact the head gasket was leaking so im sure it became pressurized and the water never made it past the thermostat..

The bottom cylinder has some straight line marks in the wall on exhaust side and the piston has play side to side not good im so frustrated with this motor.
I am going to hav e to boar it out and get a new piston oversized im sure i am bringing it in on Monday morning to make sure on what size to get so i am taking the rest apart not. I really hope the crank bearings are ok because no one will do them around here. so i hope that will fix my issue i hope
 
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