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1958 evinrude 5.5 fisherman

oneeyemike77

Contributing Member
I have a 1958 5.5 that i rescued from the side of a barn. i'm running the original pressure tank and after about 5 min of WOT it will start to die out. If i release the pressure on the tank it clears up. My question is how much psi is the tank supposed to have before the pressure relief in the tank relieves pressure. I have heard about some people converting these to regular tanks and would appreciate any input about conversions. Second , fuel ratio , I've been running 25:1 but have heard its supposed to be 16:1.
thanks in advance
 
Pressure relief value? I've forgotten whatever that was.

Mixture? 25/1 (actually 24/1)..... 1 quart of TCW-III 50/1 oil to 6 gallons of gasoline is the proper mixture. A octane rating of 87 will be fine.

Sounds like you have a fouled carburetor (flooding somewhat)..... pressure causing excess fuel to be drawn into the crankcase.

Remove carburetor, clean and rebuild it using a complete carburetor kit.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at
:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
 
Check the glass sediment bowl for crud. Pull the bowl off and clean it out. Also pull the filter off (should be a nut on the bottom) and clean it up with carb cleaner. If you are running the 4 gallon tank the mix will come out as 16:1. Use 1 quart TCW 3 oil per either 4 gallon tank or 6 gallon tank. OMC did this for convenience as most oils were sold by the quart or bulk. Try to stay away from ethanol blended fuel unless you get a plastic or brass float for the carb.
 
Thanks for the info. I pulled the top off the tank last night and checked the relief valve. The valve was full of rust and dirt. There is no way it could have released any excess pressure. I'm hoping this solves my problem.
 
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