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1958 35 hp Evinrude lark will not run need help please?

J

Joel A

New member
Hello, I have been working on this 35 hp lark and I am puzzled. It was not running when i the motor but it looks clean. I have replaced the points,plugs,condenser magneto, hoses,fuel pump kit, carb kit,new seats,jets,leaf gaskets,leaf valves,manifold gasket and I still cannot get it to run. The comp is 74 on one and 75 on the other. I think it might be low but i thought it would at least start. Its gaped at what the manual says and fires on the marks. It will only run for a few seconds with fuel placed in the cylinders or starter fluid in the carb. will not start being choked or open. Carb is getting fuel and a few times it came out of the front and the exhaust.Any suggestion would be much appreciated. Joel
 
The fact that the engine starts when you squirt the fuel mixture in the cylinders or directly into the carb (don't use starter fluid) indicates that although fuel is gaining entrance TO the carburetor, the fuel mixture is not flowing THRU the carburetor.

Remove the carburetor, dismantle it and double check all fuel passageways, float level, etc.
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

********************
(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

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Thanks for replying, The first thing i did was removed the carb and made sure all the valves were clear. then opened the bleeder screw to make sure fuel was in the bowl,[ there was]. then changed the leaf gaskets and blades. It seems like it is not getting fuel to the cylinders. I thank you for the tutorial on the needles but i can not get it to run more than a few seconds. that is not every time either. I even tried covering the whole carb with plastic and it tried to run for about 2-3 seconds. After than nothing. any suggestion? thank you Joel
 
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