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1957 Sportwin Parts Conversion

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2003hdflstc

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I recently bought a 1957 Evinr

I recently bought a 1957 Evinrude Sportwin 10 h.p. I have a parts manual but none of the part numbers seem to match with any website. Is there a conversion manual? How do I order parts if I cannot give accurate information? Where is best place to find many parts in one spot?
 
"The Sierra marine catalog has

"The Sierra marine catalog has many of the common replacement parts (Ignition, fuel, water pump, etc.) for this engine and it is available on this site. If you are trying to find original evinrude parts, your local Evinrude dealer should be able to cross reference the old and new parts numbers. Some of the parts for this motor were also used on later engines and may still be available. Many of the parts are not available and ebay may be your only source."
 
"Bob, Thank you for your insig

"Bob, Thank you for your insight and knowledge. I was afraid that parts would be hard to find but was encouraged when I saw information listed on multiple websites for this old motor. Previous owner said it will not run, yet when I opened the cover the engine looks immaculate so I have to give it a try. I appreciate your time. Bob"
 
"Robert...This link should be

"Robert...This link should be a great help. A service manual is available on this site for $40.00 and it is a must if you are doing the work yourself. The gas/oil ratio is 25 to 1 using modern TCW3 oil. When removing any stubborn bolts/screws, be sure to use a propane torch to heat the surrounding aluminum...Be patient, let the parts heat up for several minutes and the bolts which have been in place for 50 years will usually loosen up easily...Good luck...keep us posted on your progress
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/max/index12.htm"
 
"Robert,

The OEM numbers ca

"Robert,

The OEM numbers can be entered on the home page search box on our site MarineEngine.com.

The result should show the latest OEM number as well as aftermarket matching parts if available.

Thanks."
 
"Gentlemen, So far so good. Wi

"Gentlemen, So far so good. With your help, I have been able to locate most of the parts I need. I have also located a service manual, however I still need your help. My manual states nothing about the following question. Remember this is a 1957 Evinrude Sportwin 10 h.p. motor.

The attached photo shows the slow speed needle valve. The needle valve (gold) threads into the needle valve bushing (silver). The entire assembly is held in by the valve nut. My question is how the bushing works. Does this just "float" inside or should the bushing be mounted solid? The high speed needle valve threads into something solid with a fixed position. If the slow speed needle valve bushing is not supposed to be in a fixed position, where do I set it? I would imagine there is a rough setting and I should thread it in or out a set number of turns. Your help is appreciated as always. Bob
222122.jpg
Slow Speed Needle Valve
 
"that bushing,..needs to be st

"that bushing,..needs to be stationary...after cleaning rebuliding carb,use a cleaner to rid the bushing of oil etc,..then,...use RED locktight,around the side of it...let it sit over nite after installing,..needs to be inst all the way in hole,in carb.when adj,use caution.--dont get red locktite any where near threads inside."
 
"heres a carb adjustment from

"heres a carb adjustment from joe reeves




Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway."
 
"i might should have given you

"i might should have given you this one if your high speed isnt adjustable....sorry if i confused you


(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway."
 
"OK, I have a 1957 10 hp Evinr

"OK, I have a 1957 10 hp Evinrude Sportwin that I am currently rebuilding. I have the opportunity to buy a 1957 15 hp Evinrude Fastwin. Percentage wise, how many parts are interchangeable? I realize the power head will not be, but what about the carb, lower unit, gears, etc? When one craps out, will the other be able to benefit from spare parts or should I completely re-build both? I'm leaning towards re-building both."
 
"if u r leaning to do both---d

"if u r leaning to do both---do both---
i love those old dawgs....
but...........i tell ya......serioulsly...u cant beat a mid 80's 15 hp.....i love those eng's...
we wk on about 10 a summer...i thinkthe imp is too small...but,..an excellent lil pwr hse"
 
"I am having trouble finding p

"I am having trouble finding parts for the 1957 Sportwin 10hp and 1956 Fastwin 15hp. I have looked on this site and through the Sierra catalog. Where else can I go? Silly interchangeable things (I would think) like recoil springs, pull handle, transom mount handle, etc. I've been watching e-bay as well. I've got part numbers but cannot seem to locate parts."
 
"Most people who own these mot

"Most people who own these motors purchase a "parts Motor" Try an ad on craigs list or going to an old time dealer...The parts you mentioned should be available at most omc dealers...even if they are no longer produced, many dealers still have NOS(new old stock). If you list exactly what parts you need, someone on this site probably has them and you could contact them."
 
"here is how i fix that loose

"here is how i fix that loose bushing.......clean it well,w/alcohol,or carb cleaner....same for area where it goes,..blow dry thoroughly,..use RED locktite on outer area,w/carb it is running position,level,...insert the bushing,still on the needle,back into the carb...before putting LT on it,back out the needle to make sure it wont seat,to allow the bushing in all the way...let it sit 24 hrs..."
 
"Bob, Thank you for the info.

"Bob, Thank you for the info. I have thought about a parts motor but they can be hard to find at the right price for a complete motor. Most want to sell as parts to maximize profitability, can't blame them. I will continue the search, perhaps I will search local dealers. This is the dangers of enjoying machines as old as I am.

JWB, Thank you for the insight. I did just that and it appears it worked well. Once the ice breaks and I get on the open water, I will know for sure. I appreciate both of your insight and knowledge. Bob"
 
"Gentlemen, If you follow the

"Gentlemen, If you follow the thread above, you will have much background info on the two motors in question. Good news is that both motors are running however there are opposite issues with both. Before I rip the flywheels off and start messing with things, I figured I would ask for help and quick ideas. Here Goes. The pictures below show the Throttle Control Cam in relation to the Cam Follower Roller. The top two pictures show the 1957 10 H.P which will not idle at low speeds but runs great with some extra throttle. The last two pictures show the 1956 15 H.P. which idles like a kitten at very low speed but has no high speed. First picture of each set shows setting with throttle at low speed, second poicture of each set shows setting at high speed. Which throttle control cam position is correct? How does this get changed? Service manuals do not show this that I can see. Your help is always appreciated. Bob
251556.jpg
1957 low speed"">
251557.jpg
1957 high speed"">
251558.jpg
1956 low speed"">
251559.jpg
1956 high speed
 
"i am only seeing 2 pix.......

"i am only seeing 2 pix........and that timer base position as photo'd,...would never idle....it is in kill position.,in left pic..,and start pos,in right pic.."
 
"Not sure if this is the answe

"Not sure if this is the answer to your question but.... The scribed mark indicates where the roller should be as the throttle just starts to open....The brass cam is held on and adjusted by loosening the two screws which hold it to the mag plate and moving it out or in until the roller just touches at the scribe mark. You do not have to remove the mag plate to make the adjustment. This synchronizes the throttle and spark advance. Once adjusted, there are few ways it could change other than some wearing of the rubber roller"
 
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