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1955 Johnson 10 Qd-16 timing ??

Below the flywheel you will find the magneto plate.-----It rotates as you increase throttle.-----------There are 2 vertical lines on it.-------------Point the timing light at those marks and you will see the timing notch on the flywheel.----------It will always fire between the 2 marks.----------Points are to be adjusted to a 0.020" gap.
 
racerone said:
Below the flywheel you will find the magneto plate.-----It rotates as you increase throttle.-----------There are 2 vertical lines on it.-------------Point the timing light at those marks and you will see the timing notch on the flywheel.----------It will always fire between the 2 marks.----------Points are to be adjusted to a 0.020" gap.
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It fires up real easy. Everything is gap right and all that stuff just trying to finetune it to make sure it's the best It can be. It hasn't ran in about 20 years so I'm still trying to work bugs out. It really smokes a lot when I throttle it up. So I need to see what's going on there.
 
A good read that can answer a lot of your questions for these older engines is "LEROY'S RAMBLINGS" found here http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_QD.htm Likely the pph below applies to your engine and 'why' all the smoke. Important to know the MIX you are (or need) to be using.

"[FONT=&quot]These old 10 hp since 1949 were built without needle bearings in the crank and rods, wrist pin bushings were bronze. [/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Fuel/oil mix on all these older OMC motors that have bronze rod bearings is 24-1 of the old 30 weight automotive motor oil. Now it would be the TCW-3 standard outboard oil, which would give better oiling and longer motor life than the automotive oil originally recommended for this motor".

[/FONT][/FONT]
 
Sam are you 100% sure that the rod bearings on the crankshaft are bronze on a QD-16 model ?--------Or even the QD-10 model for that matter.------------ Wristpin for sure they were bronze.
 
racerone said:
Sam are you 100% sure that the rod bearings on the crankshaft are bronze on a QD-16 model ?--------Or even the QD-10 model for that matter.------------ Wristpin for sure they were bronze.
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No Sir I am not ! This is merely quote from Leroy's Ramblings.
 
I guess Leroy needs to do some more research for his teachings / ramblings !!-----------Wonder why some post about motors that they have no hands on experience on.
 
Maybe Leroy should! --------- I didn't realize this forum was limited to certified mechanics opinions only. Is it? ---------- All opinions and/or experiences can be of some value if they apply or ignored if not.
 
The timing is set by the flywheel key keeping the flywheel aligned with the key-way of the crankshaft. The engine is in time UNLESS that key is sheared due to the flywheel nut not being torqued properly.

As for the points in relation to the timing... follow the below procedure..................

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Note that there are other ways to set points such as using a ohm meter or timing light... however, the following will result in a setting so close to being exact that one could not tell the difference.


Make sure that your feeler gauge is absolutely clean so as NOT to transfer oil/grease to the points.

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP embossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.
 
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 
joereeves said:
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
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I did that thank you. It runs pretty good. Kinda shaky!! But it still smokes to much I think. I've been tuning it in a barrel for a while now. Not sure if it from sitting or bad fuel delivery? Why does it keep smoking so much?!?!?
 
The 24/1 mixture is unfortunately needed on that model and that mixture of 1qt oil to 6gal gas will smoke somewhat, especially in a test tank, barrel, trash can, whatever, due to the engine being unable to clear itself out without emptying the test tank of water. When underway, it shouldn't be so bad.
 
joereeves said:
The 24/1 mixture is unfortunately needed on that model and that mixture of 1qt oil to 6gal gas will smoke somewhat, especially in a test tank, barrel, trash can, whatever, due to the engine being unable to clear itself out without emptying the test tank of water. When underway, it shouldn't be so bad.
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I chamged the water 2 times now. But I'm gonna try your idea anyway. Thanks for the help guys
 
Get it out of that stupid barrel and on a boat where it was designed to run, and get it adjusted properly. It will still smoke some, but you won't notice it so much. Let's just say it is supposed to smoke. Yes, I know, the water might be frozen, depending on where you are.
 
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Originally Posted by joereeves
The 24/1 mixture is unfortunately needed on that model and that mixture of 1qt oil to 6gal gas will smoke somewhat, especially in a test tank, barrel, trash can, whatever, due to the engine being unable to clear itself out without emptying the test tank of water. When underway, it shouldn't be so bad.

"When underway it shouldn't be so bad"..... unless you are a fish! These motors are banned on several lakes and what you are seeing in the barrel is just a small sample of the discharge. Going through six gallons of gas will deposit almost a full quart of oil into the lake. The early British Seagulls ran on a 10 to 1 mixture and were even more damaging to the environment. With that said, I love those old dual line OMC's. The sound they make and the smell of that exhaust bring me back to my first boating experiences.
 
Well it's smoking so bad I don't feel like getting gassed by the man. I mean smoking not just a puff or 2 not trying to be in the water with motor problems.
 
Micheal35 said:
Well it's smoking so bad I don't feel like getting gassed by the man. I mean smoking not just a puff or 2 not trying to be in the water with motor problems.
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Smoking that bad!!?.... Even a 24/1 mixture shouldn't do that. The only reason I can think of would be if you had an empty tank and put in that quart of oil first, then added the gas. That would cause raw oil to be forced up the fuel line into the carburetor... now yeah, when you finally got the engine started, it would smoke like you were running a mosquito killer machine!

The proper method to fill the "empty" tank is to put in a couple gallons of gas first, then the oil, then the rest of the gas. The force of the remaining gas going into the tank would create the gas/oil mixture to combine as it should be.
 
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