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1953 Johnson 5 HP SeaHorse

M

misslemike

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"My 1953 Johnson 5 HP Seahorse

"My 1953 Johnson 5 HP Seahorse starts up. Then it seems to run ok. About 3 minutes later out on the lake it starts to backfire and stalls. After restarting, it begins to sputter again and as I play with the mixture and the carb lever underneath it seems to come back to life, but only for a couple of minutes more when it does it again and stalls. After priming it again and waiting a few seconds it seems to start up and as it sputters I try to adjust for the 100th time and it might run nice for only a few minutes. I am a newbie here but I wonder if gas is getting to it because it sure leaks a little from somewhere underneath. But then, today, It runs like a charm for about 30 minutes, but then back to the sputter, backfire and stall. The guy I bought this from only says that I need to learn how to adjust it properly. But when I get it adjusted right and it runs well, it will only be a few minutes when this happens again. I cant believe it is just adjustments anymore. Any help please. Thanks"
 
"That engine no doubt incorpor

"That engine no doubt incorporates a dual line pressure fuel tank setup. The gas tank cap must be kept tight so that the engine can pump air to it which is needed to pressurize the tank so that the pressure will force the fuel to the engine.

If any furl/air leaks, find out why and correct that problem.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

When time permits, visit my store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Thanks Joe, When should the v

"Thanks Joe, When should the vent on the gas cap be opened? I think I am supposed to open the vent when starting the motor. I forgot if I should leave it opened or have it closed. I will check the carb adjustments. Thanks again"
 
I think this motor HAS A TANK

I think this motor HAS A TANK ON TOP gravity feed thru a filter ( In the tank ).Vent must be open.The man says it is a 5hp not the later 5-1/2 hp.Also you must check the ignition --condensers and coils.
 
I think this motor HAS A TANK

I think this motor HAS A TANK ON TOP gravity feed thru a filter ( In the tank ).Vent must be open.The man says it is a 5hp not the later 5-1/2 hp.Also you must check the ignition --condensers and coils.
 
"If that engine has a fuel tan

"If that engine has a fuel tank attached to the top of the engine, disregard my remarks about a pressure tank. I was thinking of the slightly later model (around 1955) that incorporated this feature.

Open the vent on top of the tank before starting the engine if your engine has the tank as part of the engine."
 
"This has the tank attached on

"This has the tank attached on top. Guess what, after draining the gas i had in there i notice some sand like substance in the tank. I mean like wet sand. I did notice a pice of the gas cap that extends down over an inch has corrision and i wonder if it corroded in the tank. Does this one have a fuel filter that I can get to?? I took off a gas line going to the carb and dont see a filter? Unless it comes off from bottom of the tank. I would guess the stuff has to be cleaned out of the tank. Any suggestions? I am a newbie at this but willing to learn. Thanks again"
 
The filter is built into the t

The filter is built into the tank. Classic symptoms are reduced fuel flow as fuel level drops in the tank and less filter is exposed to allow proper fuel flow.The filter should screw out.Check for spark that will / MUST jump a gap of 1/4" or better.
 
"Here is a follow up. The gas

"Here is a follow up. The gas tank certainly had sand in it that came from my gas can. I have small children and may have been sabatoged once again. I rinsed the tank with water and then gas. The fuel filter was kind of clogged and i noticed it is hard to blow through even after i cleaned it. Any suggestions here or should I get another filter? After I connected the gas line back and opened the gas valve gas began pouring out of the top of the carb. It stopped after a minute. I noticed the gas comes down from the filter in a very very slight stream. I guess that is by design I hope.
But now the motor seems to run continuously and not stall. I have it in a barrel. It does seem to backfire a little until I get it adjusted, but I was able to get it to run without stalling now."
 
"As I remember, the fuel filte

"As I remember, the fuel filter is a tubular, sintered bronze arrangement. It is connected to the brass piece which the fuel line screws into. It is removed by unscrewing it from the bottom of the tank where the fuel line connects. You could try cleaning it by backflushing it with lacquer thinner or some other solvent. After removing the filter from the tank, you could also break the filter portion off from the brass fitting, reinsert the brass portion back in the tank and use an inline filter (available at a lawnmower shop) and splice it into the fuel line with rubber fuel hose. The tank has to be removed and cleaned thoroughly or else the new filter will clog almost immediately."
 
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